Beauty as the result of classic plus casual. The menswear scenery can be ideally divided into three areas: fashion, classic and casual. The main feature of fashion clothing is to change trend every season. Some brands stay true to their DNA, like Armani or Dolce&Gabbana, others revolutionize, and sometimes deny, the trends proposed six months before. Like Prada or Jil Sander. Classic clothing accordingly follow the designers’ decrees: for example they enlarge or tighten the lapels, lenghten or shorten jackets and trousers; colors and prints are aligned with the trends of the fashion shows. The casual/sportswear is a completely different subject. It alternates, at most, seasons dominated by bright colors with others dominated by more reassuring shades, like blue, grey and beige. The mix between classic and casual – if it’s well done – leads to a beautiful final effect. Like in this picture, that was the Seventy 2008 adv campaign, by Michael Woolley.


Deep V. Amedeo Modigliani: the picture is from the early years of the 1900s, but it looks like current. Yes, this is a timeless style, that can’t be placed in a particular era. This is the style of simplicity: bare but fascinating, incorruptible, beyond the trends. To sum up, this is always a trendy style. How to give it a more stylish and creative taste? It’s easy: keep the V neck of the pullover, opting for a plunging one, and play with contrasts between plain colours/prints. Invert them for the shirt: one colour if the sweater is printed and vice-versa. Wear the pullover inside the trousers, that have to be baggy: this will keep the retro mood of the look. Trousers must be plain and the fabric has to be thick and woven, like the cotton canvas or coarse-grained wool. The bohemian artist Amedeo Modigliani (1884-1920)


Original cuts. “Traditions have to be maintained so they can be passed on to future generations. In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation”. It has been said, written indeed, by Monsieur Christian Dior; and Kris Van Assche, the current creative director of Dior Homme, used the original sentence and handwriting of Maitre Dior, as the leit-motif of menswear collection, as a pattern printed on outerwear. The idea of “maintaining these traditions in troubled times because they’re the flower of our civilisation”, injects a sense of pride. So that’s why we mustn’t forget that in any field  – from art to fashion and literature – nothing existing today would have been possible without an origin, a past. Christian Dior on the Times’ cover in 1957



Divergent thinking. Wide trousers with turn-up, maybe intentionally turned on a leg for this picture, pullover with a wide oval neckline worn on the bare skin, watch with a round clock face, penny loafers and…white, short socks. The etiquette of menswear has very strict rules, and one of them is about socks: they mustn’t be white nor short. But history of fashion and style icons prove just the opposite. The picture we are talking about is from 1951. More than sixty years have passed by, but this is here, flawless, to show us that the charm of some men and of a certain movie iconography is timeless. Is breaking the rules a luxury allowed only to movie, literature and art stars? Maybe. But the temptation to revalue that casual-chic look, which is so “imperfect” in its elegance, is really strong: try to add some garments, to set the tone of the outfit, and see if it works. Gene Kelly in 1951, picture by Alfred Eisenstaedt.



Denim has been surprising us for over 50 years and it’s not over yet. At this point we all know that the fabric was born in the 17th century as an excellent material for making working clothes. From 1900 denim has been used for everyday clothing. It’s been one of the tangible symbols of the youth revolution and over time became part of designers’ collections, especially during the 80s and 90s when entire collections have been dedicated to denim. But the most important thing to consider is that denim is ageless, it can be used by young people as much as by the over 50s. It has lost all its ideological values over time, now it can be worn by anyone and it has no gender identity. The “Blue Jeans” exhibition inaugurated last november at the Centraal Museum of Utrecht by head of art direction of dutch brand G- Star Pierre Morisset, will be open to the public until march 10. The exhibition shows the history and evolution of denim through all the experimental and creative aspects, from the beginning till today. Denim menswear has not lost its sheen, being suggested every season with different treatments, colors and shapes and also for accessories.