MAGAZINE

IO UOMO – VESTIVAMO ALL’AMERICANA

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We dressed the American style. Today at the Metropolitan Museum in New York opens the first part of the exhibition In America: A Lexicon of Fashion; the second one – An Anthology of Fashion – is going to open in May 2022. In terms of self-celebration the Americans are champions; just like the French. Lucky them. But in terms of fashion, luxury brands are rare exceptions. On the other hand they’re brilliant communicators, brave and skilled in marketing, but not always able to leave the mark with memorable collections. “American fashion” is, indeed, more referred to an idea of style and talks about a self-referential culture, everything but inclusive. “American fashion” is Brooke Shields in Calvin Klein denim, Ralph Lauren’s Hamptons, the Studio 54 star system celebrated by Halston. It’s a mood. Not by chance the ambassador of fashion worldwide has been an Italian, Franca Sozzani. Anna Wintour has never been able to bring Italian and French designers on New York catwalks, like she’d like to (for years).

IO UOMO – ALTRI SOVVERSIVI

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Other subversive. The cover of Style Magazine shows a kind of aesthetics we’re not used to anymore. The politically correct idea of beauty diffused nowadays has been and will be essential to convey an inclusive signal even from who, for example the fashion press, privileged a single idea of image in the past. But if we have to be inclusive, let’s include also the classic beauty (that we don’t dislike at all). On the cover, the 80s reference is pretty clear; the photographic technique, the casting, the grooming and the styling remind us the era of the beautiful and unattainable. While the clothes, by Alessandro Sartori for Ermenegildo Zegna XXX, are the combination of the contaminations and a creative path that, in the last years, have overturned the codes of conformism and tradition of a historic brand looking for contemporaneity.

IO UOMO – SCOPRIAMOCI ATLETI

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Let’s be athletes. The Olympic games ate about to start. We’re going to watch some sport, I hope so, and maybe, in this precise moment, we don’t care much about the style adopted by sportsmen and sportswomen. We care about the attitude they (an we) will have to approach these Olympics one year later. We hope we’ll breathe a sigh of relief and focus our energies on the passions and emotions that the pandemic has stolen from us. Concerning my “style advice”, let the pictures talk. And may the best one win.

IO UOMO – TORNA LA CRAVATTA

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The tie is back. “Have you changed your job?”. This is how a meeting between me and a communication specialist started. That’s because I was wearing suit and tie. That’s because the tie is considered unfashionable. Well, I wasn’t offended by that. Because actually the tie is a little disappeared from catwalks during the last seasons, but it’s also true that one among the most cutting-edge designers, Virgil Abloh, has revived it for next Louis Vuitton’s fall/winter collection. So what? So habits and trends come and go, they disappear and then come back after years. So, take your ties out of the wardrobe. Signed by Marinella, Hermès, Armani. Or adopt new ones, from the same “traditional” brands or from young international brands.

IO UOMO – FUORI DAL CORO

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Outside the box. Mastroianni, Paul Newman, Anthony Perkins. In the 50s white socks were a menswear’s classic. They’ve been usually worn for almost four decades. 80s: Michael Jackson brings them back into fashion, followed up by George Michael and even by Loredana Bertè and Donatella Rettore. But from the early 90s , here’s the death foretold of off white socks, and the accessory disappears. Actually, it’s banned and pointed out as trash. But the doubt remains: why were they ok for James Dean, Steve McQueen, Duran Duran and are not for us? But now, that fashion shootings have revaluated the “prohibited” accessory, things have changed. Let’s be outsiders, according to your personality. And use fashion to convey a sign of rebellion against conformism.