levi’s

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – UNFORGETTABLE

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Unforgettable. Giacomo Ferrara, 27 years old, before Suburra – The Series had already acted in the namesake movie directed by Stefano Sollima as supporting actor. Then we’ve seen him in Il permesso by Amendola and in Il Contagio with Vinicio Marchioni. But with The Series he has established himself as one of the greatest talents of italian cinema. Ferrara’s power in playing the part of Spadino is really great, a character that is bad but not so bad, with a noticeable “problem” for a criminal from a ruthless gypsy family that fights to obtain its part of territory in a very corrupted capital: he’s homosexual. Ferrara’s Spadino is one of those characters that lingers in everyone’s memory: he’s unforgettable. Unforgettable just like – I don’t overstate – De Niro in Taxi Driver. So much that he deserved an article on Financial Times.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – UN CLASSICO È PER SEMPRE

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A classic is forever. When a garment or an accessory is called with the name of a brand instead of its own, is a sign that that brand has become a part of the history of fashion. The first cases are from the 70s, when even a fabric replaced the word “coat”: the “loden”. And Ray-Ban, that replaced the word sunglasses: “I’ve bought a pair of Ray-Ban”. From then on it has been a sequence of icon-brands like K-Way, Levi’s. It was “I’d like to buy a Lacoste” instead of “I’d like to buy a polo shirt”. Later, the same fate for the trench/Burberry and, in the 80s, “I’ve choosen an Armani”. These and many others, are griffes that, if not in the classic dictionary, could surely be included in a thesaurus.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO IL VINTAGE DÀ I BRIVIDI

48-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia6-2The vintage creeps us out. The enthusiasts of this genre are anxious about the beginning of the new season of Bates Motel, the prequel of Psycho, the very famous movie by Alfred Hitchcock. Transmitted by Netflix, the Tv series has been created by Carlton Cuse and Kerry Ehrin that claim to have been inspired also by David Lynch; and, actually, we can find some references to Twin Peaks. Bates Motel doesn’t take place in the 50s, even if it talks about the relationship between mother and son before the murder: the screenplay set the story today. But, detail that adds mistery and charm, the two protagonists , Vera Farmiga (Norma Louise Bates) and Freddie Highmore (Norman Bates), are dressed in 50s’ style. As two ghosts thrown into the present, dis-united in an obsessive relationship that will lead to tragedy. In the new season, Marion Crane (the girl of the memorable scene of the shower, played by Janet Leigh in Psycho), will be played by Rihanna: let’s see if she will wear vintage clothes too.

SCHEMA LIBERO LO STILE CHE RESISTE ALLE MODE

Style that lives through trends. That appreciated vintage touch, that intellectual-retro taste that remains intact. The portrait of the sculptor Mario Ceroli in his studio (above) conveys the idea, a frame that could be both two or forty years old: static in its currentness. The artists of Ceroli’s generation usually don’t follow dynamics and evolutions of fashion in the strict sense, but their style reveals a certain sensitivity and personality. In this case there’s a sporty attitude, even if the details – the denim shirt, buttoned up, and the gun belt – keep us guessing a tendency for order and a high degree of irony, respectively. This week’s style suggestions are for those who aim for wearing something new but that would last and live through evolutions/revolutions “imposed” by fashion.

SCHEMA LIBERO L’INTUIZIONE GIUSTA

The right intuition. Years ago I had to find an idea to unite the entire issue of the magazine I directed: every two months, the magazine had a single subject that involved every part of it, from the various columns to fashion, up to news and even the horoscope. I was in Paris for fashion shows, and Paul Smith displayed his collection in a swimming pool: chlorine smell, the dives sound, and the idea arrived, water. What I mean is that you can be everywhere, in every circumstance and you can have an eureka moment that solves a little enigma when you least expect it. A scent, a noise, a colour, sometimes can be enough. Who has a mind open to every spark, especially who – like me – has the privilege of having a creative job, can have the right intuition everywhere. Paul Smith was right, when he entitled his volume “You can find inspiration in everything”, and in his honour this week we’ve shot some pieces of cloth among the most brilliant and fascinating that I found in the winter collections. The cover of Paul Smith’s book.