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IO UOMO – CIAO MACHO

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Hey, Macho. “The cowboy style is an implicit pledge of allegiance to the mentality the myth embodies, which can be denominated as rugged individualism”. This is how Lawrence Wright, American writer and journalist, depicts the Tex-Mex, the so-called fusion of texan genre and streetwear. Differently from what he writes in his book God Save Texas – “The counterpart of machism is that we reject the female side of our nature” -, fashion questions the rules of western iconography and softens a style that comes from  the workwear of cowboys, – “but that still today is chosen by many Texans that actually live in offices or indoor”.

IO UOMO – SIGNORI, MIXATE

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Gentlemen, let’s mix. I think I’ve already talked about it, but these days I like to revisit it. The styling you find in men’s fashion magazines usually gives ideas for basic or classic outfits: hardly ever – especially the italian magazines – they suggest a mix of fabrics, colors and shapes that abroad (not everywhere, to be clear), instead, where different ethnicities and customs cohexist in harmony, are a rule. So that when we fly to London or New York, Paris or New Orleans, we think: “Look at that, how certain clothes suits them well”. Influences from non-western countries have such charme and personality that – if properly matched – can revive even the most normal suit. Try that. Despite every conformism.

IO UOMO – (S)VESTITI DA LAVORO

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(Un)dressed to work. Countries more conscious than USA and Europe about environment and energy saving, Japan on top, impose that even in the middle of summer the temperature in offices mustn’t be lower than 26°C. What does it mean in terms of clothing? Considering the amount of men that use to wear suit and tie in offices, I’ll suggest an equally decent dress code without jacket, that allows gentlemen not to suffer for heat during working time. Let’s start from the top: no jacket, so no tie; opt for a shirt, made of popeline (better than linen), or for a (beautiful) polo shirt – please don’t lift the collar – blue, white or green. Elegant loafers with matching socks and light wool trousers. The belt is important to complete the look: avoid black leather (same thing for shoes) and prefer natural crocodile or brown napa leather. The buckle has to be discreet, otherwise without jacket it’ll be noticed for sure.

IO UOMO – COME SIAMO FORMALI

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We’re so formal. Do we have to expect a back to formal? Yes, we do. The codes will be different, but the suit will be a trend of f/w 2019; so we can say that the most loved style – the classic, indeed – is coming back, again. To understand how fashion is a countinuous series of quotes of itself, we need a quick review: what happened in the 80s? From the street style of the 70s, all about denim, fringes and fitted shirts, the silhouette was redesigned by padded shoulders and lots of colors, lots of excess. Maybe too much. Ten years later the new diktats avoid color and prefer the total black, and slim volumes for jackets, trousers and also ties, that passes from 12cms wide to 4. What happens today: we’re coming from an extreme street-style. Well, now we’re starting to aim for more tidiness and rigor. The first signals? The blazers with visible stitching and a lot of black. Is time to wipe the suit agin. Or to buy a new one.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO CIAO MASCHIO

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Hello, male. How changes the perception of “beauty” over time! And with many contraddictions. The fans of the last androgynous skinny trend are usually the same that regret the “real males”, all muscles, moustaches and suntan? The menswear samples are made only for very thin build by now. Size 46, at most 48. Obviously, those so lucky (but is it a real value?) to have this kind of build can consider a purchase in this direction, if they can afford it. The hunks are excluded. How much longer? Will the 80s’ sense of beauty come back? Many hope so. I don’t feel the difference: due to age matters I’ll be ridiculous dressed like David Bowie as well as Burt Reynolds.