jacob cohen



Hey, Macho. “The cowboy style is an implicit pledge of allegiance to the mentality the myth embodies, which can be denominated as rugged individualism”. This is how Lawrence Wright, American writer and journalist, depicts the Tex-Mex, the so-called fusion of texan genre and streetwear. Differently from what he writes in his book God Save Texas – “The counterpart of machism is that we reject the female side of our nature” -, fashion questions the rules of western iconography and softens a style that comes from  the workwear of cowboys, – “but that still today is chosen by many Texans that actually live in offices or indoor”.



Unforgettable. Giacomo Ferrara, 27 years old, before Suburra – The Series had already acted in the namesake movie directed by Stefano Sollima as supporting actor. Then we’ve seen him in Il permesso by Amendola and in Il Contagio with Vinicio Marchioni. But with The Series he has established himself as one of the greatest talents of italian cinema. Ferrara’s power in playing the part of Spadino is really great, a character that is bad but not so bad, with a noticeable “problem” for a criminal from a ruthless gypsy family that fights to obtain its part of territory in a very corrupted capital: he’s homosexual. Ferrara’s Spadino is one of those characters that lingers in everyone’s memory: he’s unforgettable. Unforgettable just like – I don’t overstate – De Niro in Taxi Driver. So much that he deserved an article on Financial Times.


Double bind. Timeless flagship of menswear, the double-breasted jacket is a must-have. Everyone has to have at least one for each season Its birth goes back to the XVII century, when it was part of the uniform of the Hussar army: this doesn’t surprise…when we wear a double-breasted suit we’re forced to take on a very erect, martial, posture. The time of its greatest popularity was between the 30s and the late 40s. Then it came back in fashion in the 80s, but longer and with very wide shoulders. Today the shape is more fitted (but the last trend wants it a little more loose than a couple of seasons ago) and shorter. Fashionistas and snobs wear it without tie, with the shirt unbuttoned and a printed silk scarf.


Style that lives through trends. That appreciated vintage touch, that intellectual-retro taste that remains intact. The portrait of the sculptor Mario Ceroli in his studio (above) conveys the idea, a frame that could be both two or forty years old: static in its currentness. The artists of Ceroli’s generation usually don’t follow dynamics and evolutions of fashion in the strict sense, but their style reveals a certain sensitivity and personality. In this case there’s a sporty attitude, even if the details – the denim shirt, buttoned up, and the gun belt – keep us guessing a tendency for order and a high degree of irony, respectively. This week’s style suggestions are for those who aim for wearing something new but that would last and live through evolutions/revolutions “imposed” by fashion.



My father used to love only western movies. Saturday afternoon was a ritual: second show – at 16 0′ clock – cowboys, redskins and horses. The fate of those poor beasts was a source of worry (“do they hurt themselves when they fall down?”). Till, on a rainy saturday, in full grey Milanese autumn, was the turn of “For whom the bell tolls”, an old picture show – precisely from 1943 – inspired by Hemingway’s novel, with Gary Cooper and Ingrid Bergman. I was used to spaghetti western, as easy as they were boring, and I was not prepared for a dramatic western at all. I cried so much that from then on I refused to go to the cinema with him, and only this year I made peace with western thanks to Tarantino and his Django. The modern cowboy played by Jamie Foxx captivated me, but I haven’t recovered yet after the goodbye scene between Maria (Bergman) and Robert (Cooper): the bracket has already closed.