calze red



British College. The illustration by J. C. Leyendecker (right) conveys the features and the codes of a timeless style, from the British campuses: the first signs of men’s fashion of the 20th century. The drawing is of 1929, and it was the adv campaign of the Interwoven hosiery factory. I’ve already written about the importance of socks. As you can see, even our forerunners were very careful about details. Look at the rest of the look: apart from the pipe (I haven’t seen one for decades), it is in accordance with the taste of several modern brands, that propose the eternal college style in sweater or blazer version and the wide trousers with turn-ups. And finally the slippers. That, horrible for some and gorgeous for others, are the number-one-accessory in the list of fashionistas. Right, an illustration of J.C Leyendecker for Interwoven (1929)



The choice of the socks. In the last years socks have become a very important accessories in menswear, so much so that women often wear “men’s” crew socks. The reason could be that they’re the cheaper fashion accessories, or that designers have understood that the right choice of the socks is trendy, mainly if they have very peculiar colours, prints and textures. In Italy this is a very recent trend, while American, French and especially British care about the choice of the socks as they care about choosing shoes. It is not by chance that the British designer Paul Smith has been one of the first to propose and value coloured and printed socks, matching them in contrast with the trousers, or in the same shades. For example: plain coloured trousers with optical-checked socks, or beige glencheck trousers with darker glencheck socks. Picture taken from “A gentleman’s guide to Dress and Style” by Nick Clemens (Goodwood).


Outdoor. The parka with double hood, made of acid green cotton canvas, the round-neck sweatshirt with contrasting hems and the denim shirt. White sneakers with blue stripes and socks with a graphic pattern. An outdoor total look, perfect for the young British actor Matthew Beard (The Imitation Game, An Education) portrayed by Rankin. An alternative way of wearing colours, with a mood of fashionable free-time in contrast with the same old “jeans with grey sweatshirt”. But for the Over 30s (the maximum age allowed for such a strong menswear)? First of all, avoid the acid colours. Prefer sneakers with performing upper and non-colours, like white, black or grey. Trousers have to be mentioned apart, because there are a lot of them, but all the same and it’s easy to choose the usual chino or the denim 5pockets. But how many of them do you already have? If you’d like to buy new trousers for your free time, opt for some special details.


Spa Code. When you stay in a big hotel, a 5-star with excellent cookery and a beautiful spa like the Relilax Miramonti in Montegrotto Terme, even if the atmosphere invites to relax, it doesn’t mean that you can have breakfast half-naked wearing slippers. Be careful about lapses of style. It’s possible to dress with taste without carrying a heavy luggage. You can wear a tracksuit with sneakers for breakfast; at lunch opt for a pair of dark jeans or velvet trousers, with a polo shirt or a plain colour shirt. In the evening, a simple but stylish, preferibly single-colour, look: round-neck sweater, shirt and gabardine trousers, to match with classic and comfortable desert boots. And in the spa or at the pool? First of all, turn off the mobile phone (or rather leave it in the room); then opt for swimming trunks and bathrobe. Finally, in the water, avoid the butterfly stroke: these are places where silence is the rule. The pool of the Relilax Miramonti Hotel, in Montegrotto Terme.


Imperial holes. The brogue’s upper was originally drilled for “technical” reasons. Holes helped to keep the shoe dry in case of rain or, vice versa, cool in summer. Today there are completely different devices: leather is processed in order to become actually waterproof. However, that early device is now a distinctive and ornamental sign. The brogue, born three centuries ago, lost quickly its original purpose, utilitarian and sporty, becoming an iconic accessory. Legend has it that Edward VII – King of Great Britain, Ireland and Emperor of India (for only one year, in 1936) – was the first one, as a prince, to sanction the swallowtail lace up shoes, wearing them during a formal event. Custom-made brogues by Paul Smith Personal Service.