New codes spanning past and present. The “new man” has already tuned in to the frequency of the cutting-edge designers: the trend-setters have abandoned the slim fit in favor of wider an fluid shapes. The “comfortable-suit” trend has strenghtened itself during this year, and it means a radical change of volumes in the next f/w. From suit to knitwear, from leather outerwear to trousers: this year’s innovation is a mix of past and present that doesn’t crush drastically menswear, but introduces new codes leading us towards a new modernism. Pilati for Ermenegildo Zegna (1) redesigns with extreme elegance the Sahara jacket by Yves Saint Laurent, made of wool and silk instead of cotton. And while Giannini (Gucci), that has always been skilled in outerwear and leatherwear, now focus on knitwear, with a longer and wider fit (2), Kim Jones for Vuitton (3) proposes a jacket with a sporty inspiration (it has to be worn like a sweater), made of honey-colored leather. Prada designed a double-breasted suit, that keeps a slim fit for the jacket but exaggerates lenght and width of the trousers, that touch the shoes making a lot of folds (4). Paul Surridge, designer for ZZegna, (but now we are talking about next f/w), not only creates contrasting matches and wide and rounded coats: for his excellent collection he also choose fabrics that “enlarge” the clothes, making them consequently more voluminous (5). And finally, still talking about next f/w, the first show of Guglielmo Capone (6), a popular designer in the 90s that, after a long period far from the catwalks, relaunches his brand with a very refined collection. Tomorrow’s menswear will be fluid, embracing and comfortable for Capone too.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.