The only true innovation which marked a big change in menswear during the 90’s has been the introduction of technological treatments on fabrics. With the wisdom of hindsight we now know that minimalism has been a reaction to the opulence of the prior decade more than a proper trend and that it has been lacking in new ideas. The Special finishes applied to improve the fabrics and make them waterproof, windproof, thermal and antitranspirant improved functionality but made the clothes look stiff. Whoever says that in order to be fashionable one must suffer a little is probably right but there are limits. Unfortunately, the technological invasion degenerated into a quite common and not very elegant casual wear which has left behind the typical exibitionism of the paninaro movement yet also a style which was determined by the beauty of particular materials and by a confident lifestyle and personality which later on have been classified as part of the past. However, it has been also a style which achieved outstanding excellence in pieces like the waxed cotton trench in the picture, realized with a keen eye for details and wearability in order to preserve the outerwear smoothness and avoid the resemblance to a shapeless armour. Nowadays the problem has been solved, thanks to the experience which taught us how to combine that certain comfort and class. Gabriel Aubry wears Allegri, picture by Rennio for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1997.
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