The eternal set. It’s one of the iconic architectures of the capital. The Palace of Italian Civilization, in the Eur, restored by Fendi and headquarter of the maison from October 2015, includes also a space for exhibitions and public events. This is one of the many international sociocultural procedures about communication between fashion, architecture, art. The building was designed between 1936 and 1937, and finished in 1940, for the Universal Exposition that never took place. From the “peplum” to The Last Kiss by Muccino, the building and its surroundings have been the set for hundreds of movies. About the picture I chose, the great book Eur, si gira, by Laura Delli Colli, says: “For the fellinian episode “The temptation of Dr Antonio” in Boccaccio ’70, the filmmaker imagined a busty Ekberg on the advertising billboard “Drink more milk”. It had to be only a picture, but during the making of the movie, Fellini changed his mind and wanted Anita in the flesh”.



“Stormbringer” is the funkiest Deep Purple’s album. It came out at the end of 1974 in full “austerity” period, reaching a breaking point with hard rock: the homonym single was as danceable as “Smoke on the Water” from the older album “Made in Japan ” but more soul. The visual impact of the illustration on the cover was suggesting a stormy scenario (although the title was exhaustive enough) and a statement of intent throught the use of colors, mainly purple, yellow and orange. Such cover desearves to be included among the strongest in history of discography, it represent contemporary anxiety in its very own way addressing several analogies with a certain kind of fashion aesthetic which is currently in style for men’s clothing. In the picture the cover of “Stormbringer” by Deep Purple.


The only true innovation which marked a big change in menswear during the 90’s has been the introduction of technological treatments on fabrics. With the wisdom of hindsight we now know that minimalism has been a reaction to the opulence of the prior decade more than a proper trend and that it has been lacking in new ideas. The Special finishes applied to improve the fabrics and make them waterproof, windproof, thermal and antitranspirant improved functionality but made the clothes look stiff. Whoever says that in order to be fashionable one must suffer a little is probably right but there are limits. Unfortunately, the technological invasion degenerated into a quite common and not very elegant casual wear which has left behind the typical exibitionism of the paninaro movement yet also a style which was determined by the beauty of particular materials and by a confident lifestyle and personality which later on have been classified as part of the past. However, it has been also a style which achieved outstanding excellence in pieces like the waxed cotton trench in the picture, realized with a keen eye for details and wearability in order to preserve the outerwear smoothness and avoid the resemblance to a shapeless armour. Nowadays the problem has been solved, thanks to the experience which taught us how to combine that certain comfort and class. Gabriel Aubry wears Allegri, picture by Rennio for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1997.