hermés

STYLE MAGAZINE 2015

The songwriter Newton Faulkner photographed by Timur Celikdag, wearing Hermès. Styling Alessandro Calascibetta.

faulkner

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO L’ECCEZIONE ALLA REGOLA

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The exception to the rule. Timeless beauty. When elegance and charisma coexist, there’s not much to talk about, the picture talks for itself. Mr Irons, on the set for Style Magazine december 2015, was dressed really…normally: pullover, a scarf, dark jeans. The only almost clashing detail, but typical of the american taste, that belongs to the clichè of a great and a bit capricious actor: pointed boots. It’s ok. They’re ok. But you have to be tall. When I was a boy I often dressed like this, I liked it: a pullover, five-pockets in bleached denim and the above-menioned “camperos”. At eighteen you can wear almost everything. And then I was in perfect harmony with the trends. Jeremy Irons can wear almost everything because he’s a global star! Today the boots under the jeans are honestly outdated. But Irons doesn’t make fashion, he makes movies, he does it well and we like him. Total respect. But if you aren’t him, please, wear a pair of desert boots. Jeremy Irons in a picture by Brigitte Lacombe for Style Magazine.

SCHEMA LIBERO LA CINTURA SUL GILET

The belt over the cardigan. Wearing a sweater inside the trousers could be a little eccentric, but is not a folly: in the early 1900s our great-grandfathers used to do it. A century has passed by from this shot by Lartigue, but look at how modern are the subjects. The final result of the look I suggest to you will give a old-fashioned effect and, so, why don’t  emphasize the vintage taste? The – single breasted – jacket if in plain colour has to be made of a rough fabric like the wool-crepe, otherwise of a printed fabric like Glencheck or vichy; the shirt has to have a little collar and light tone on tone stripes, the tie will be perfect if knitted. The cardigan, the protagonist, has to be thin, made of wool or cashmere. The belt? Matching the outfit and with a little buckle, not to attract too much attention on the waist. And, finally, the trousers: with pleats. Picture by James Henry Lartigue from the book Chic, le Sport! (Actes Sud/Hermès)

SCHEMA LIBERO TAGLI ORIGINARI

Original cuts. “Traditions have to be maintained so they can be passed on to future generations. In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation”. It has been said, written indeed, by Monsieur Christian Dior; and Kris Van Assche, the current creative director of Dior Homme, used the original sentence and handwriting of Maitre Dior, as the leit-motif of menswear collection, as a pattern printed on outerwear. The idea of “maintaining these traditions in troubled times because they’re the flower of our civilisation”, injects a sense of pride. So that’s why we mustn’t forget that in any field  – from art to fashion and literature – nothing existing today would have been possible without an origin, a past. Christian Dior on the Times’ cover in 1957

PARIGI: DIOR HOMME, HERMÈS, CARVEN

di Luca Roscini
DIOR HOMME
Excursus sul guardaroba maschile: dall’abito formale al denim passando per il montgomery e il tuxedo. Pur cambiando alcuni addendi (maxi camicie sotto la giacca, sneaker di rigore, profili quasi fluo e stampe astratte) il risultato rimane assolutamente classico in un esercizio di eleganza continuo.
 
HERMÈS
Camminare per la città è questione di charme da Hermès. Abiti classici in micro check e doppiopetto gessati indossati con dolcevita lasciano spazio a meno ortodossi trench di nappa morbida, jumpsuit di lana, pantaloni di cavallino e maxi cardigan con jacquard, reinterpretati in pelle.
CARVEN
Collezione concreta e intelligente che mescola i sine qua non della stagione con pezzi tipici dell’armadio di un uomo: c’è il bomber ma è di shearling, c’è il peacoat ma è in pelliccia, c’è la felpa ma con ricami ironici.