Winter is practical but overluxurious. Casting and hairstyles remind us of London in the Sixties, as well as the shape of trousers – slim, with a narrow and short bottom (but with a high turn-up) – and jackets: single-breasted, three buttons, quite fitted. But Paul Surridge, creative director of ZZegna, pays more attention, than to the formal wear, to a kind of sportswear corrupted by fashion ideas and contents, foreseeing a trend that will be very strong, the “Luxury/Sport”: a new trend that contains a practical but very luxurious essence. As it turns out you’ve had a very successful idea, Paul. “Thank you! I wanted to express a young attitude; men choose the suit as the way they dress, just like it had been for the mods, the movement that inspired me. It hasn’t been a copy/paste exercise but a way to reinvent a past mood. This trend starts from here, where sporswear and luxury meet each other”. I think this was one of the best fashion shows in Milan of the f/w 2014 season. I appreciated the use of colours: especially saffron-yellow that – used for caban and coats made of heavy wool – becomes softer: but that’s the only “bright” part of the collection, which is mainly based on blue and shades of grey. The two-coloured overclothes create very strong contrasts and become immediately a must-have. It seems you embraced a very concrete idea of menswear, a mix of Fashion and simplicity… “My creative process starts from colour and goes on with a deep research of fabrics, that acquire a characterizing identity; this is a personal challenge to bring innovation decreasing the ingredients and rewarding simplicity. This has been my favourite collection!”.

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