The gentle winter by Calvin Klein. Italo Zucchelli – since ten years ago the menswear creative director for Calvin Klein Collection – turns over a new leaf. This change is clear in shapes and lines, but it keeps, in some fabrics, that “technical” feature typical of his past collections, maybe a little bit too “cold”. Zucchelli plays again on fabrics from sportswear, such as nylon, but in the last show – f/w 2014 –  he reveals a passion for certain squared silhouettes that recall the Eighties, and refines his man designing garments closer to the classic tradition, for example the camelhair coat. He leaves in part the slim fit of trousers, opting for pleats and wide and fluid volumes, with the bottom lent on hefty brogues with a high sole. Is this a way to involve a wider range of customers? I’ve asked it directly to the designer, who told me: “The DNA of Calvin Klein Collection man includes some tailoring features that, like the bomber jackets and oversize coats, were often recovered in my collections. An emphasized dualism, intentionally expressed in a clearer way for next winter”. Above, two looks of next f/w Calvin Klein collection; below, printed T-shirt of the p/e Calvin Klein collection in a picture by Giovanni Gastel for Sportweek.

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