A dark and comfortable second skin. Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, has designed a winter collection that this year considers a lot of leather and a lot of black. The next collection, instead, is going to be colorful and “signaling”. There has been a change of mind in the meanwhile? A sudden nostalgia for total-black followed by “regret”? I don’t think so, because Giornetti knows his stuff and this redirection, in complete opposition to last seasons, is part of the creative path of important brands: Prada docet. But let’s go back to the current season, so dark, austere. “There’s not nostalgia, rather a contemporary interpretation of the “dark” style: I like the idea of a palette converging in black intensity, a color scale taken to extreme saturation: grey, blue and dark green that blend”, says the designer. Leather, processed with rubberization, is in some aspects more “technical”. At a glance, the Ferragamo adv campaign has a martial look, more rigorous than the previous ones, a quite dramatic mood. “I wouldn’t say dramatic, but more intense, thank to the natural light choice, that draws geometries, pulses the space and wraps around face and body of Tyson Ballou, portrayed with the purpose of communicating a sense of organic continuity between architecture and nature”. The jacket in the picture has a squared and austere cut, softened by the leaning made of tone on tone fabric. Austerity, so, but not excessive. And comfort. In the picture by Letizia Ragno (detail) black leather jacket by Salvatore Ferragamo.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.