Armani’s thinking is inspired by Eighties. The jacket in this week’s picture represents one of the most innovative suggestions in male clothing for next fall/winter; it’s not just the mix between fabric and synthetic material to make it special and particularly futuristic, nor the diagonal zipper and leather borders. The singularity of this piece of cloth, unique in his kind, is the “pied-de-coq” manufacturing, a variation of the well-known pied-de-poule more common in female fashion. The shape recalls mildly Eighties proportions: big shoulders that emphasize the waisted line, and the lenght that stops few cm under the waist; in a few words, Armani seems to have drawn from his archives and restyled in modern key one of his jackets from 1984/85, adding a print that makes it more fashionable. It’s a gorgeous garment, although quite durable due to his fashion appeal, that can be worn only by very thin and tall men: the match with too tapered trousers can produce a disharmonic look as well as, instead, a bold one; in doubt, it would be better to choose straight but a bit leg-wide trousers. In this last case, you’ll be in full “Armani Mood”. Jacket made of wool and neoprene by Giorgio Armani, F/W 13/14.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.