Men with the beard. Beard: yes or no? Today we say yes. Like yesterday and the day before, after all. Like in the Seventies, and back to the beginning of the twentieth century. Trends that come and go, that last long, that vanish and then come back. Ladies, if you hate the shiver you feel when a bearderd man kisses you, live with it. Whereas, if you love that sensation of virility that causes redness on your pale complexion, exult. Someone could say that we look “untidy”, that beard makes us look dirty (sometimes it’s true: remember to wash it well, there are specific products), that we look all the same. The same happened, after the 68, with those manes à la Jim Morrison, that today make you exclaim: “Men were much more handsome in the past”. But at that time it was a trend too. And talking about trends in menswear: now that shapes are more loose, you regret that slim-fit trousers that have been in fashion until a couple of seasons ago. When you used to say: “These make your legs look like two toothpicks”. Conclusion: ladies, we can’t please you. You are too ahead of your time, or too capricious. Make up your mind. Clint Eastwood with an armadillo on the set of Two Mules for Sister Sara (1970)

The colour of leather. It was 1971 when a cult-movie came out in cinemas: Shaft. Actually, the main part of this movie’s success is due to its fantastic soundtrack composed by Isaac Hayes (Theme from Shaft). But the protagonist, Richard Roundtree, sheathed in black leather clothes, brought to international fame the afro-american style, inaugurating a current that has lots of addicted still today. Roundtree was even described as “sexier than James Bond and tougher than Bullitt”. If you don’t belong to the large group of the imitators of this mood, the common sense suggests to avoid the total look made of black leather. Opt for black only if you’re able to downplay it. Otherwise, if it has to be leather, choose the shades of brown/beige and remember that there are garments made of suede. That’s finer and lighter than leather. The poster of the movie Shaft by Gordon Parks (1971).

Leaves’ colour. In his case, that kind of photography defined as still-life couldn’t have a most suitable name. For 35 years Karl Blossfeldt (Schielo 1865 – Berlin 1932) photographed leaves, seeds and flowers. Images that the german sculptor and photographer used to show his students how nature’s shapes, adapting to environment and weather, acquire different and fascinating morphologies. Blossfeldt, indeed, said: “Plants don’t have to be evaluated with an insensitive and mere functionalism, but their shapes develop on the basis of logic and adaptation and with their primordial strenght push every part to obtain the highest artistic expression”. His first photographic volume, Unformen der Kunst, was published in 1928 and today it’s still considered so much modern, that it suggests the hazard of a new form of modern art linked to the idea of “back to the roots”. The New Futurism? By now content ourselves with wearing the colour of nature. In this season’s collections there are garments for every taste and complexion. The opera omnia of Karl Blossfeldt

The exception to the rule. Timeless beauty. When elegance and charisma coexist, there’s not much to talk about, the picture talks for itself. Mr Irons, on the set for Style Magazine december 2015, was dressed really…normally: pullover, a scarf, dark jeans. The only almost clashing detail, but typical of the american taste, that belongs to the clichè of a great and a bit capricious actor: pointed boots. It’s ok. They’re ok. But you have to be tall. When I was a boy I often dressed like this, I liked it: a pullover, five-pockets in bleached denim and the above-menioned “camperos”. At eighteen you can wear almost everything. And then I was in perfect harmony with the trends. Jeremy Irons can wear almost everything because he’s a global star! Today the boots under the jeans are honestly outdated. But Irons doesn’t make fashion, he makes movies, he does it well and we like him. Total respect. But if you aren’t him, please, wear a pair of desert boots. Jeremy Irons in a picture by Brigitte Lacombe for Style Magazine.

Comfort Code. The “conservatives” of classic clothing wrinkle their nose. I visualize their horrified expression looking at this outfit by John Varvatos worn in 2006 by Iggy Pop for his adv campaign. Pop wears actually a shirt and a tie. But the leather waistcoat, the sleeveless studded jacket, breaks the codes of formal wear. For fashionistas this is neither new nor shocking. For all the other customers – the main part, I think – this matching is justified by the personality, but it’s not appropriate. But wearing a leather waistcoat under a wool jacket we can even avoid wearing a coat in midwinter. And here a very captivating feature for men comes into play: the practicality. Especially if you don’t love long coats (a must-have for this season) and you usually drive a motorcycle. Think about it. Comfort and fashion together. Why not? The singer Iggy Pop in the adv campaign of the american designer John Varvatos, 2006 (detail).