Una moda etica deve necessariamente imparare a convivere con le necessità del pianeta: non inquinare nei processi produttivi e attraverso i trasporti delle materie prime (per quanto possibile senza cadere nell’autarchia), rispettare i lavoratori e il diritto d’autore, non danneggiare il consumatore.
E non sono poche le aziende di grandi come di medie dimensioni che da qualche tempo stanno cercando di muoversi in questa direzione che, va detto, è più consona a una dimensione artigiana che ad una grande  fabbrica.

Un modello s/s 2015 di Eco Jeans Roy Roger’s

Tuttavia ci sono esempi di produzioni virtuose e di qualità come altri di dimensioni di massa. Così la Roy Roger’s riesce a proporre attraverso «The Eco Jeans Project» jeans maschili numerati, che vengono trattati con un lavaggio senza additivi chimici e con un ridotto consumo di acqua, oltre ad essere invecchiati attraverso trattamenti a impatto zero, come gli spruzzi a ghiaccio o gli interventi speciali laser. Una prassi che, qualora venisse estesa a tutti i jeans che si producono attualmente al mondo, potrebbe davvero fare la differenza in senso ecologico.

Alcune delle sneakers Santoni a km0

Cambiando settore notiamo anche nell’azienda calzaturiera Santoni una forte attenzione all’ambiente, che riguarda tutti i prodotti. Il cuoio è conciato con estratti vegetali e colorato manualmente con un processo lento e graduale. Chiaramente tutto questo costa, ma secondo il principio di comprare non a casaccio ma seguendo la norma del «value for money» abbiamo un oggetto fabbricato in maniera non invasiva che evita i danni delle tinture al piombo all’acquirente. Da poco la casa produce anche sneakers a kilometro 0. Per chi ama la moda ecologica. Luisa Ciuni

Ecological fashion. … Continua a leggere →

Imperial holes. The brogue’s upper was originally drilled for “technical” reasons. Holes helped to keep the shoe dry in case of rain or, vice versa, cool in summer. Today there are completely different devices: leather is processed in order to become actually waterproof. However, that early device is now a distinctive and ornamental sign. The brogue, born three centuries ago, lost quickly its original purpose, utilitarian and sporty, becoming an iconic accessory. Legend has it that Edward VII – King of Great Britain, Ireland and Emperor of India (for only one year, in 1936) – was the first one, as a prince, to sanction the swallowtail lace up shoes, wearing them during a formal event. Custom-made brogues by Paul Smith Personal Service. 

Military licence. The uniform style: how many times have we looked for USA Navy shorts, a shirt with tabs or a jacket with golden buttons in second-hand markets in Camden and Brick Lane (London), Marchè aux Puches (Paris), Williamsburg (NY) or Porta Portese (Rome)? military style is always indeed a synonym of vintage. The point is how, and how much, the vintage (or its “imitations”) has to be mixed with current menswear, daring a match with the classic/formal wear. This is a little choice of suitable matches: creased shirts break the perfection of a suit, especially if the tie has the same old-fashioned taste. Same thing for the trousers: if they have a used appearance, they soften, for example, the clear silhouette of a double-breasted blazer. But pay attention to the accessories: if they are the only vintage items, they clash with the outfit that can be misconceived as neglected; so be sure to wear something else sticking to the point. Winston Churchill in the British Army officer uniform.

 Great feats. In May 1932 the American aviator Amelia Mary Earhart (1897-1937) carried out a great feat: she flew solo from Terranova Island (Canada) to Londonderry (Northern Ireland) in fourteen hours and fiftysix minutes. The picture of her seems to be an adv campaign shot by Fallai for Armani in the late 80s – early 90s. And she is “very Armani” too: short hair, tie and trousers, “comme des garçons”. This is one of the most suitable looks for women who love wearing men’s clothes or for men with a lean build that prefer a classic but unusual elegance. Sure, the tie can be too wide and old-fashioned. But, considering the great return in menswear of fluid and wide volumes, I’m sure that the tie with a width of at least 8cm will be back soon on the catwalks. The pioneer of the solo non-stop flight across the ocean Amelia Mary Earhart in 1935.

At a man’s feet. It is said that a man’s elegance stays also (and especially) in the shoes he wears. A pair of shoes can be fashionable, classic or sporty, depending on the kind of man that wears it and, for every variety of shoes, there are rules to be respected in terms of elegance. Style has nothing to do with beauty and quality of an accessory: when style is absent, the accessory itself loose its identity. The wider is the offer, the higher is the chance to get wrong. The crocodile – for example – has to be “impoverished” by a minimal look; the chelsea-boot mustn’t be worn with wide-bottomed trousers; bicolor shoes has to be worn with caution and, in case of bright colours’ matches, it’s good to bear in mind that they’re “dedicated” to trendy under 30. Age has its weight talking about sneakers too: if you are over 30 but you wear them because they’re comfortable, do it just in the spare time. In doubt, it’s better to choose classic: a brogue in calf leather, but never in black before 6 pm.