Imperial holes. The brogue’s upper was originally drilled for “technical” reasons. Holes helped to keep the shoe dry in case of rain or, vice versa, cool in summer. Today there are completely different devices: leather is processed in order to become actually waterproof. However, that early device is now a distinctive and ornamental sign. The brogue, born three centuries ago, lost quickly its original purpose, utilitarian and sporty, becoming an iconic accessory. Legend has it that Edward VII – King of Great Britain, Ireland and Emperor of India (for only one year, in 1936) – was the first one, as a prince, to sanction the swallowtail lace up shoes, wearing them during a formal event. Custom-made brogues by Paul Smith Personal Service. 


Una serie di ritratti di Giovanni Gastel ad alcuni esponenti dell’industria della moda italiana. Le foto risalgono ad un paio di anni fa: mettere insieme tutti questi big non fu cosa da poco, ma è stato un lavoro di grande soddisfazione e per questo, oggi voglio riproporli a chi – magari – li aveva persi.
A series of portraits of some italian fashion industry’s leading figures, by Giovanni Gastel. These pictures date back to a couple of years ago: putting together all these “Bigs” wasn’t a pin point, but was really satisfying; this is the reason why today I want to propose them again to whom – maybe – missed them.


The classiest ones are the Parisians (fashion was born in France after all), followed by the English. Parisians are naturally elegant, it’s perceivable from a distance… a part from the odd habit of wearing socks with little hearts or Mickey Mouse’s face printed on them. English men fall into these two categories: the classic-conservative and the trendy, The trendy ones are often confused about fashion and they end up overdoing it. Italians have a good reputation abroad, they say we are the most elegant. It’s not true, it’s only due to the fact we’ve got the greatest designers , the best tailors, the most beautiful fabrics, besides italian textile industies are top manufacturing companies.That’s all. What about Americans? They are not on the list. On the right John Steven in 1957, one of the most influential figures within the British menswear industry of the 60s and inventor of Carnaby Street, picture from the volume “Sharp Suits” by Eric Musgrave – Edizioni Pavillion.


Lusso e tradizione percorrono un binario parallelo e si incontrano a metà strada in un mix di nuovo “conformismo”, come nel caso dell’ imbottito in nylon ma con stampa macro herringbone di Herno. Negli accessori, invece, vincono lo stile understatement o il fashion estremo con echi punk.
Lust and tradition run trough parallel binary; they meet each others in a new conventionality mix, as seen for the nylon macro herringbone down jacket at Herno. Instead, for accessories, the understatement style wins or, vice versa, extrem fashion with punk echos.

Cappello realizzato in pelo di cervo Borsalino

Boots in pelle con dettagli in metallo lavorato, Costume National

Effetto denim per la 24 h in tela tecnica e pelle, Piquadro

Giacche in nylon stampa spina di pesce con interno in piuma d’oca, Herno

Mocassini con frange, Moreschi

Boots in pelle con dettagli a lavorazione ad intreccio, Fratelli Rossetti