silvio fiorello

IO UOMO – GESSATO FOREVER

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Forever pinstripe. If it’s true that rules are made to be broken, it’s also true that the suit is the basis of menswear. Into reasonable limits, elegance of the past remains an unavoidable reference. Basing on many and different suggestions of fashion, we can opt for our favourite reference, avoiding others. Pinstripe is a classic: the picture I’ve chosen for this week has a cinematographic mood, inspired by Il Padrino. Not to highlight the vintage glamour of the pinstriped suit, choose a jacket with very wide lapels and add a rock touch, like the silver rings. And a clean grooming: no to long and blow-dried hair, no to pomade, yes to a military cut. But the last word is, as always, yours.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO NERD R-EVOLUTION

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Nerd R-Evolution. If we Google “Nerd”: “A young man, who is insignificant and not attractive, that repairs his lacking attractiveness with an obsessive passion and a great tendency for new technologies”. There are several theories about the etymology of the word “nerd”: we only know that it was coined in the UK around the 50s. It was used at first with derogatory meaning. But during the decades, being a nerd has become a style. It initially was that style for brains, a bit losers, that became cool thanks to Mark Zuckerberg and Steve Jobs. Now, the nerd look has evolved: from the minimal T-shirt, jeans and sneakers of the past, today the nerd is also a businessman dressed with formal tailored classic.

STYLE TIPS #2: CRAVATTE – COME INDOSSARLE E ABBINARLE

Il secondo appuntamento di Style Tips, la rubrica dedicata al dettaglio, trasloca su The Men Issue. (Per chi si fosse perso il primo: http://style.corriere.it/moda/style-tips-le-calze-ecco-come-abbinarle/)
Questa volta l’attenzione è puntata sulle cravatte: un caposaldo dell’abbigliamento maschile, classico ma non solo.

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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO NON SONO DETTAGLI

schema-libero12Not details. Eric Bergère, art director, journalist and stylist, born in 1960, in a portrait by Terence Donovan in 1988. Bergère styling is perfectly in line with those years: exaggerated and pompous. Obsessive about details: when he didn’t wear the tie, he wore the cache-col, inserted into the neck of the shirt buttoned up to the third button. With the tie he always wore the silky pocket-handkerchief, matched with the tie. The sideburns were still long, last traces of the 70s grooming; the hair instead were in very 80s style, smoothed back with hair gel. In almost 30 years shapes have changed, but in today’s collections we can see the checked moulinex on blazers and the houndstooth on trousers; rarely the paisley prints on ties. But the pocket hankie is still “missing”.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO CRAVATTA SI, CRAVATTA NO

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Tie, yes or no?. Blazer and shirt, without pullover. And without tie. Claudio Antonioli, owner of one of the most fashionable boutiques in Milan, has proclaimed the “farewell to the tie”. Some jobs need the tie and other don’t. Some men love it (the main part of them) and other hate it (“It’s too tight, it’s annoying, it makes me feel uncomfortable). So give voice to the trendsetters like Antonioli but, for equal conditions, listen to those who think different: me, for example. The jacket worn with the shirt, but without the tie, suits very few men. If you belong to the “no-ties” side, have at least the caution to wear the shirt completely buttoned. Or, absurdly: wear it unbuttoned to the breastbone, even if you take the risk to look like a naff, especially if you have a hairy chest. In doubt, cover the shirt with a beautiful sweater made of light wool or, indeed, wear the tie. The American rockstar Michael Stipe in a picture of Ron Galella.