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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – IL CAVALIERE ECLETTICO

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The eclectic knight. “A Fornasetti item has the power of changing the vibration of any place. A room can be very beautiful, but also rooted in real life. Place a Fornasetti in there and the room acquires a completely different aspect”. This is how, in 2005, Philippe Starck described the dreamlike side of the masterpieces of Piero Fornasetti, (Milan, 1913/1988). His son Barnaba continues the research started by his father and contributes to the success of an artist that revolutionized the interior design concept; a “style changer”, Fornasetti, that “for a long time was ostracized. Far from the strict rules of modernist rationalism, bearer of a narrative and theatrical design that reached the highest peak of modernity, recovering at the same time the classical codes. Piero Fornasetti was put on the borders by a system that didn’t forgive his eclectism”: this is what Silvia Annicchiarico writes in the book Citazioni Pratiche, edited by Electa and curated by Barnaba Fornasetti. If Piero Fornasetti had been a director he would have been Fellini, if he had been a band, the Beatles, and if he had been a modern artist he would have been Damien Hirst. And if he had been a fashion designer?

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – GRADI DI SEPARAZIONE

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Degrees of separation. Rod Stewart’s shoes in this picture of 1965 with Long John Baldry (singer and guitarist of The British Blues) correspond with the short white socks of Marlon Brando in a portrait that has made history, with him crouched on a chair at Actors Studio. Yes, because if the “error” (or “horror”) comes from a remote past, and besides made by a celebrity, is cool; if it’s made by you, you are a chav. But fashion designers try to surprise us in many ways, with eccentric ideas on the borderline of good taste, so why does a guy today deserve to be called a person of bad taste? White socks are in fashion, for example. We must ask ourselves which is (and if there is) a degree of separation from good and bad. There are different kinds of fashion: conventional doesn’t admit mistakes, while fashion created on purpose, following our personality without worries and obligations, does. The history of Miuccia Prada menswear collections teaches us that oversights and imperfections are (or can be) a sign of personality that makes the difference. My advice: follow your instinct and, if you’re sure you can dare, do it. And if you dare, do it completely.

COMIC PACK

PRADA

Marsupio, Prada, s/s 2018.

Una collezione celebrativa del divario/incontro tra realtà virtuale e realtà umana, reso attraverso l’uso dei fumetti, che si fanno linguaggio simbolico. “Sono disegnati a mano, umani, semplici e reali. Anche nel caso in cui contengano le fantasie peggiori, hanno un aspetto semplice…Sono piccoli frammenti di vita, che è ciò che si ottiene oggi dall’informazione, dai media: quindi sono sempre stata molto attratta da loro. Anche se non mi sono mai piaciuti.” Quindi, fumetti, realizzati dal collaboratore di lunga data James Jean e dall’artista belga Ollie Schrauwen decorano dal pavimento al soffitto la location dedicata alla sfilata, e fumetti decorano maglie, camicie e accessori, come il marsupio, il must-have di stagione. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl. 
A collection that celebrates the gap/meeting between virtual reality and the reality of the human part, rendered through the use of comics, that become a symbolic language. “They are hand-drawn, human, simple and real. Even if they contain of course all the worst fantasy, they look simple…They are little fragments of life, which is what you get now from the information, the media: so I was more and more attracted by them. Even if I never liked them.” So, comics by longtime house collaborator James Jean and Belgian graphic artist Ollie Schrauwen decorate from floor to roof the location of the show, and comics decorate sweaters, shirts and accessories, like the fanny pack, the must-have of this season. Edited by Angelica Pianarosa, Ph. Michele Gastl.

 

STYLE FASHION ISSUE 2015

It was the second of a lucky series: here the “fashion” protagonist was the young and talented actor Matthew Beard, that embodied the ss15 trends. Ph Rankin, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta, Total look Prada.

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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – LA MODA DELL’ARTE

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Fashion of Art. From 2010 the philosophy of “fashion of Art” started to spread. The most popular brands diversified their communication strategies incorporating other worlds, making them compatible with fashion. One of the first coexistences of art and design is the glass and steel  slide designed by Carsten Holler for Prada Milan headquarter. Among the most recent there are Dolce & Gabbana’s haute-couture (in Naples) and Alta Sartoria Uomo (in Palermo) fashion shows: they chose two art cities, not “fashion” cities, like Milan or Paris. But let’s consider the “tradition of fashion” and fashion in the strict sense and ask ourselves what will remain of this decade 2010/20.  The phenomenon of the millenials will go down in history; the innovation is not the proposal of a harmonious masculine/feminine and feminine/masculine ideal that has already existed from Jim Morrison on, and that was resumed by Hedi Slimane in 2000: the innovation is in the extraordinary ostentation that, translated in numbers, has taken Gucci back to the top of the most sold brands. Hats off to Alessandro Michele. In the end, in memories will remain the multitude of accessories that has supported and supports fashion’s budgets. Little-great pieces of contemporary art, from eyewear to shoes and bags.