prada

STYLE FASHION ISSUE 2015

It was the second of a lucky series: here the “fashion” protagonist was the young and talented actor Matthew Beard, that embodied the ss15 trends. Ph Rankin, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta, Total look Prada.

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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – LA MODA DELL’ARTE

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Fashion of Art. From 2010 the philosophy of “fashion of Art” started to spread. The most popular brands diversified their communication strategies incorporating other worlds, making them compatible with fashion. One of the first coexistences of art and design is the glass and steel  slide designed by Carsten Holler for Prada Milan headquarter. Among the most recent there are Dolce & Gabbana’s haute-couture (in Naples) and Alta Sartoria Uomo (in Palermo) fashion shows: they chose two art cities, not “fashion” cities, like Milan or Paris. But let’s consider the “tradition of fashion” and fashion in the strict sense and ask ourselves what will remain of this decade 2010/20.  The phenomenon of the millenials will go down in history; the innovation is not the proposal of a harmonious masculine/feminine and feminine/masculine ideal that has already existed from Jim Morrison on, and that was resumed by Hedi Slimane in 2000: the innovation is in the extraordinary ostentation that, translated in numbers, has taken Gucci back to the top of the most sold brands. Hats off to Alessandro Michele. In the end, in memories will remain the multitude of accessories that has supported and supports fashion’s budgets. Little-great pieces of contemporary art, from eyewear to shoes and bags.

C COME CORDUROY

INDOSSATO

Scatto di Federico Miletto per The Men Issue, Styling di Giovanni de Ruvo.

Abiti Brunello Cucinelli

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A sin., uno scatto di street style (Soletopia); a ds., Prada f/w 2017

Una questione di carattere: pare che Woody Allen ne sia ossessionato, e anche i Pearl Jam, nel 1994, ne hanno fatto il titolo di una loro grande canzone di successo.

Il corduroy, meglio conosciuto come velluto a coste, che trasmetta una sensazione “Shabby chic”, da boscaiolo, da sinistra radicale o da professore di letteratura in università, mai come in questa stagione è stato riproposto da quasi tutti gli stilisti, in tutte le salse.
Un ritorno alla semplicità, anche se relativa: in questa sua rinascita, oltre che dalle classiche toppe sui gomiti, è arricchito da applicazioni, multi tasche, frange, e lo troviamo in vestibilità slim fit o super over, abbinato alla pelle o a caldi maglioni in angora.
Prada lo esalta in tutte le sue sfaccettature, con tasche applicate, inserti in pelle o pelliccia, abbinato a gioielli di metallo e legno e collane di conchiglie.
Se ci si imbatte in foto degli anni 60-70, quasi sicuramente troveremo gruppi di amici e/o coppie avvinghiate in un abbraccio dove lui porta il pantalone in velluto a coste abbinato ad un stivaletto con tacco, e lei camicetta leggera e gonna in velluto sopra il ginocchio.
Un’immagine romantica d’altri tempi, che ci fa pensare anche ai nostri genitori, e dove epoche diverse possono incrociarsi dandoci sempre un nuovo concetto di “Corduroy” (velluto a coste appunto, dal Francese Cour du Roi, corte del Re, tessuto utilizzato inizialmente per gli abiti da caccia dei domestici reali), come in un film dove un moderno Oscar Wilde, seduto ad un caffè letterario, incontra lo sguardo di una Diane Keaton che passeggia per le vie della città.
Qui ve lo proponiamo in tre scatti: uno da sfilata Fall/Winter 17/18 Prada, uno di street style, immortalato per strada durante una fashion week, mentre quello appositamente scattato per The Men Issue, da Federico Miletto, vede protagonista un completo della fall/winter 17/18 Brunello Cucinelli, dove l’abito in velluto a coste è abbinato ad un cappotto sempre in velluto, ma con una colorazione ed una costa differente e più spessa. Giovanni de Ruvo

 

It’s a matter of personality: … Continua a leggere →

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO IN VIAGGIO CON LA MODA

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Travelling with fashion. “The only rule of travel is: don’t come back the way you went. Come back changed.” says Anne Carson. If it’s adventurous and includes exotic places and countries, the travel can change our habits. And eradicate the occidental materialism. Off course, we’re talking about fashion, and fashion – probably – doesn’t interest Anne Carson, one of the main canadian poets and essayists. But fashion has almost ever inputs coming from art, literature, different ethnic groups. Basically, the travel clothing doesn’t exist anymore, since when it’s an inspiration for the creation of new collections. And it’s a mix: of military, sporty, technical fabrics and even trekking accessories, as seen at Prada’s, emblematic and excellent example. My suggestion is, as always: don’t repeat the styling you see on the catwalks, that are a form of spectacularization of fashion. But tone the strongest pieces down with something more classic.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO TENDENZA GENDER FREE


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Gender free trend. This week’s picture represents the origin of a kind of menstyle that, during the years, has changed its definitions but, actually, has remained the same since the 60s/70s, the same years of this picture of a young Van Dyke Parks, musician, singer and author, known mainly for his collaboration with the Beach Boys. Then, at the beginning of the new century, the “artist” (or “intellectual”) became a “nerd”. Today they are called new millenial, the avantgarde standard bearer of the “gender”. This picture, by Guy Webster, could be an adv campaign of Gucci or Prada: two opposite worlds that find a common point in representing a man that – against the rules- escapes from tradition to reveal himself in all his determination and, why not, his vulnerability.