paul smith

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO VI PIACE IL GENERE?

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Do you like this gender? Gender – No Gender. Nothing to do with transvestism, transsexuality nor homosexuality. Is good to distinguish the social-cultural and scientific side from the fashion one. In the second case, gender is a term (sometimes used improperly) that describes a kind of style that mixes harmoniously masculine elements with feminine ones. The line between the two sexes becomes finer. One of the main trends of contemporary apparel, maybe thanks also to the physical similarities of today’s teenagers (boys are thinner with long hair and girls have their hair cut short and wear gladly men’s blazers, T-shirts and jeans, like in the Seventies), accompanies and enhances a phenomenon attributable to males’ desire of showing their fragility and females’ desire of imposing their strenght. There’s nothing wrong like there’s nothing right, there’s not to be proud nor disgusted. As in all things, everybody has the right to choose.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO RISVOLTI DI STILE

43-MODA-schema-libero-ok_Storia6Facing the style. “A well-cut suit makes you look thinner, taller and sexier” word of sir Paul Smith, a real expert of menstyle. Menstyle, one word that contains the emanation of what a man would like to be and own. The Style. One Style. One, because it changes depending on the person. But, overall, a Universal Style exists, and it refers indeed to the suit, that can even modify and improve the corporeality better than a plastic surgeon and has the power of adding an appeal that is not possible to reach otherwise. Fashion trends are almost a negligible detail; there’s the year of the narrow lapels, then the year of the peaked lapels, like in the 40s: here the proportions come into play. If you are short, the width of the “peak” worsen the situation, for example. Tricks that men have learnt to consider. I don’t think we still need the columns that teach how to tie a tie. We’re much sharper than in the past. Or not? We are, come on.

 

JURASSIC FALL

PAULSMITH

Felpa, Paul Smith f/w 2016/17

Una delle caratteristiche costanti e peculiari delle collezioni di Paul Smith è mantere il rigore e la qualità sartoriali propri della tradizione inglese (i suoi abiti sono un culto tra celebrities e non), stemperandoli a tratti con elementi giocosi, pop, divertenti. Così in sfilata possiamo vedere un cappotto blu notte lungo al ginocchio (con una banda di colore a contrasto) indossato sopra a una felpa con stampa/fumetto di tirannosauri. Scommettiamo che sarà una delle stampe iconiche/ironiche della stagione. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl.

One of the constant and peculiar … Continua a leggere →

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO TRA ARTE E STILE

20-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia7_1-1Between art and style. “Artisan” and “artist”. Both come from the latin “Ars” (art) even if they have different meanings. The artist is the person that handles fine arts like painting, sculpture, music, acting. The artisan is the person that mechanically adopt one of the arts or that practices crafts that require experience and manual skills. Fashion designers are artisans of art and they’re not artists in the strict sense: they often take inspiration from art for their collections. Bear in mind this slight difference, even if there are (a few) fashion creations with a very high lever of artistic taste. Reworked version of a Self-Portrait of Michelangelo Buonarroti, from a print of the 19th century by Alphonse Francois.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO IL COLORE DELLA PELLE

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The colour of leather. It was 1971 when a cult-movie came out in cinemas: Shaft. Actually, the main part of this movie’s success is due to its fantastic soundtrack composed by Isaac Hayes (Theme from Shaft). But the protagonist, Richard Roundtree, sheathed in black leather clothes, brought to international fame the afro-american style, inaugurating a current that has lots of addicted still today. Roundtree was even described as “sexier than James Bond and tougher than Bullitt”. If you don’t belong to the large group of the imitators of this mood, the common sense suggests to avoid the total look made of black leather. Opt for black only if you’re able to downplay it. Otherwise, if it has to be leather, choose the shades of brown/beige and remember that there are garments made of suede. That’s finer and lighter than leather. The poster of the movie Shaft by Gordon Parks (1971).