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IO UOMO – (S)VESTITI DA LAVORO

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(Un)dressed to work. Countries more conscious than USA and Europe about environment and energy saving, Japan on top, impose that even in the middle of summer the temperature in offices mustn’t be lower than 26°C. What does it mean in terms of clothing? Considering the amount of men that use to wear suit and tie in offices, I’ll suggest an equally decent dress code without jacket, that allows gentlemen not to suffer for heat during working time. Let’s start from the top: no jacket, so no tie; opt for a shirt, made of popeline (better than linen), or for a (beautiful) polo shirt – please don’t lift the collar – blue, white or green. Elegant loafers with matching socks and light wool trousers. The belt is important to complete the look: avoid black leather (same thing for shoes) and prefer natural crocodile or brown napa leather. The buckle has to be discreet, otherwise without jacket it’ll be noticed for sure.

IO UOMO – COME SIAMO FORMALI

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We’re so formal. Do we have to expect a back to formal? Yes, we do. The codes will be different, but the suit will be a trend of f/w 2019; so we can say that the most loved style – the classic, indeed – is coming back, again. To understand how fashion is a countinuous series of quotes of itself, we need a quick review: what happened in the 80s? From the street style of the 70s, all about denim, fringes and fitted shirts, the silhouette was redesigned by padded shoulders and lots of colors, lots of excess. Maybe too much. Ten years later the new diktats avoid color and prefer the total black, and slim volumes for jackets, trousers and also ties, that passes from 12cms wide to 4. What happens today: we’re coming from an extreme street-style. Well, now we’re starting to aim for more tidiness and rigor. The first signals? The blazers with visible stitching and a lot of black. Is time to wipe the suit agin. Or to buy a new one.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO CIAO MASCHIO

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Hello, male. How changes the perception of “beauty” over time! And with many contraddictions. The fans of the last androgynous skinny trend are usually the same that regret the “real males”, all muscles, moustaches and suntan? The menswear samples are made only for very thin build by now. Size 46, at most 48. Obviously, those so lucky (but is it a real value?) to have this kind of build can consider a purchase in this direction, if they can afford it. The hunks are excluded. How much longer? Will the 80s’ sense of beauty come back? Many hope so. I don’t feel the difference: due to age matters I’ll be ridiculous dressed like David Bowie as well as Burt Reynolds.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO RITORNI DI STILE

09-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia7(1)Back in style. A good photographic book to have is Linda McCartney – Life in photographs (Taschen). It collects the pictures taken by the wife (dead in 1998) of Paul McCartney; there are moments of domestic life, portraits of Twiggy, Rolling Stones, and obviously Beatles. Every picture is a little story; it transmits a timeless feeling. One, in particular, portrays a less popular personality than the Fab Four (in this picture, the Beatles wear a kind of fashion that reflects the vintage style of many contemporary collections): Tom Rush, that Rolling Stone defined as the precursor of the songwriters. Rush’s portrait by McCartney shows a location and a style that merge each other. And that can be today’s house and style. About “today”: the s/s 2017 sees the debut of the first menswear collection by Stella McCartney, daughter of Linda.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO BRITISH NEL DNA

49-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia8British in the DNA. I don’t think there’s anything more appreciated by men like a beautiful tailored-made suit. With this kind of attire everybody can make a good impression. With a well cut suit and a british-inspired styling we never get wrong. The exception to the rule? If the matching with shirt, tie and accessories prevails on simplicity. If you choose, thinking to be à la page, fashionable shirt and/or tie and shoes, belts and socks, not balanced with the outfit, you make a mistake. It usually happens to overdo, to break the rules creating a personalized look with more “trendy” elements. No way. Classic wear, the real one, has such a powerful image that is more than enough. The proof? Look at how many teenagers dress like David Niven or Michael Caine. Coherence, naturalness, spontaneity: don’t force the hand.