KITON

STYLE MAGAZINE 2013

Eccentric formal. The Kiton wool suit with a check pattern is matched with Bally alligator loafers. White Gallo socks represent a breaking element of the styling, intentionally unconventional. Ph. Gianluca Fontana, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE DOPPIOPETTO PERFETTO CON IL TRUCCHETTO

The perfect double-breasted with a trick. … Continua a leggere →

SCHEMA LIBERO LA MODA MASCHILE CAMBIA DIREZIONE

Men’s fashion changes direction. Fall/winter collections are sold since the first days of July, but I feel like ruling out that italian men have already cleaned out the stores, thinking about a new wardrobe. Why did I write a “new” wardrobe? It’s simple, because fashion – also men’s – has changed direction; the proof comes from last fashion shows in June that reaffirmed a drastic transformation (but it’s a matter of summer 2014, it’s too early to talk about). By now, anyway, the turning point is clear. The general trend exclude the sportswear in favour of a style with no midtones: very elegant or very fashionable. Or both together. To sum up: – Among classic shades, grey, blue and camelhair last but, in compensation, winter lights up with colours like yellow, red and light blue. – The fur is back, as a coat or as an embellishment on lapels of long coats: the three quarters jacket has, infact, almost vanished; it’s time of the calf-lenght coat or the waist-lenght jacket, there’s hardly anything in the middle. – Patterns on fabric (heavy wool and flanel mainly) goes from macro-tartan to glenchecks and houndstooth, and the double-breasted suit is in again. Michael Caine in 1966, wearing a double-breasted suit, one of the winter trends.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE QUEL CALZINO BIANCO CHE NON SEMPRE STONA

Search on Google for Paul Newman and Marlon Brando’s images. Then search for Ray Petri, the man who realised tens of remarkable editorials for I-D and The Face in the 80s and invented the stylist profession. “Ray, who thought it was hard to look good wearing anything but jeans, Ray who replaced Marlon Brando’s rebel leather jacket with the black synthetic one worn by the pilots of the Us Air Force” (from Repubblica, 2007). Newman and Brando loved to wear denim with white socks as much as Petri did. Although fashion it’s change and transformation by definition. Fashion is surprising. At times fashion can be excess, extravaganza, so while organizing a fashion shoot sometimes it is worth taking risks and then deal with consequences! Just like a designer working on its fashion show also a stylist working for fashion magazines can cause outrage: try to “suggest” wearing white socks under an haute couture suit and insults will rain down although the objective beauty of Gianluca Fontana’s picture is indisputable. If you despise the idea of socks that are not blue or grey, especially in combination with such a suit, you are not entirely wrong. But you’re not entirely right either. Picture by Gianluca Fontana for Style magazine. Suit by Kiton, loafers by Bally.

SPRING/SUMMER 2013: The Main Trends 2

Colori vivaci e pattern geometrici: sorprendono le proposte della moda uomo per la prossima stagione estiva, grazie ad un mix di toni accesi per l’abbigliamento ma anche per gli accessori. Grande ricerca sui tessuti, ultraleggeri con tagli laser per quelli tecnici e sovrapposizioni di intrecci per la maglieria, da indossare anche a pelle.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

ICEBERG

TOMMY HILFIGER

KENZO

PAUL SMITH

VERSACE

KITON

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS

CLARKS

TRUSSARDI JEANS

ETRO