hermés

IO UOMO – TRE PASSI NEL FUTURO

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Three steps towards the future. A summer ago we were free to travel, have fun, go shopping. Today we are halfway (hopefully) from nightmare and the day after, (still) stuck in a bubble of uncertainty. We’re living our first summer in black and white after years of (naive) inconsciousness, at the mercy of false values, clouded by appearance and far from the essence. The cover of Style Magazine – a magazine about style, especially twice a year and this is one of those times – sends a message for the future: the location chosen by the photographer, an inspired Max Vadukul, represents the past to be demolished and contrasts with the volitive attitude of the three young actors: Laura Adriani, Matteo Oscar Giuggioli and Alberto Boubakar Malanchino. The mood of the fashion – simple, basic – suggests a timeless “menstyle”: a step back, towards a discreet, but not nostalgic, elegance. A step back to make three steps forward: towards a better future that, by now, we can only imagine. And that we have to regain and deserve.

IO UOMO – L’ELEGANZA DEL MIX

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The elegance of mixing. Softness, romance and disorder, three keywords that depict a man that’s inclined to handle his own look, and to take the risk of not being completely in line with the codes of traditional menswear. In this column I’ve already written about what I think in terms of a more contemporary attitude, but I understand that mixing genres could be not so accepted by the Italian general public. Elsewhere this mix has been legitimized for quite a long time. But, you know: we’re one of the most conservative countries in Europe. But don’t say that Tony Musante doesn’t embody a universal and traditional masculine aesthetics. And yet, the “frilly” accessory doesn’t jar. This week’s picture portrays him in the backstage of Anonimo Veneziano, directed by Enrico Maria Salerno, out in 1970, one of the first (Italian) movies that focused on the hypocrisies of traditional family. Upstream and nonconformist, indeed.

 

IO UOMO – MIXARE È UN’ARTE

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The art of matching. Selecting the proper accessories that matches your look seems easy, but even a little detail can ruin everything. To reduce the risks, respect the rule that want every accessory, from hat to socks, to be in pendant with the outfit; and no mistakes allowed even concerning the fabrics: there are also rules about matching different materials in the proper way. For example: don’t match cashmere with shearling, yes to shearling with tweed. Rather is better to opt for a complete change of fabric: nylon hat with camelhair coat. But personality is required, as well as for wearing red socks with a blue suit or sneakers with jeans: this is so obvious that the sneakers have to be really, really special. But if you have classic tastes, stay classic: blue with blue and denim only with desert boots.

UNDERSTATED COOLNESS

HERMES

Marsupio e Cappellino, Hermès, f/w 2017.

Per l’uomo Hermès f/w 2017, la designer Véronique Nichanian ha voluto, riuscendoci, realizzare una collezione che fondesse un look giovane e cool con quel senso di lusso timeless proprio della maison. “Ci sono tanti modi diversi per esprimere il concetto di mascolinità” afferma la Nichanian; per questa stagione la mascolinità è fatta di proporzioni inusuali negli abiti (spalle più ampie, pantaloni più stretti o più larghi, vita più alta), e di accessori tipicamente casual e teen, resi però understated dall’uso di colori scuri e materiali pregiati. Il berretto da baseball con stilizzato ricamo robot è realizzato in drap de cachemire idrorepellente, mentre il marsupio, portabile sulla schiena, a spalla o sul davanti, è fatto di Taurillon Cristobal con dettagli in palladio spazzolato. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl.
For the Hermès f/w 17 man, the designer Véronique Nichanian

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STYLE TIPS #3: BAGAGLI – COME SCEGLIERLI

Il terzo appuntamento di Style Tips si allinea con il periodo: festività su festività, voglia d’estate e gite fuori porta, vacanze imminenti (più o meno). E la categoria che decidiamo di affrontare è quella, spesso sottovalutata a livello stilistico, delle valigie.

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