giorgio armani

IO UOMO – APPUNTI DI MODA

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Fashion notes. A trend stops to be appealing for several reasons, based on the historic moment and on countless variables – among them, the social mutations. It’s true that, sooner or later, the hyperbole overturns and what was neglected comes back again in the must haves top hit. The cover headline of the picture you see below, in this page, “Style&Transgression together”, sums up in three words the main trend of 1996, when the sobriety of the suits’ tailoring and the lack of bright colors invaded our wardrobes, winking to a new classic; the stretch fabrics fitted the body without squeezing its shapes; the colors, pale but not too much, were a trick to play down the total-black. Nostalgia? No, it’s not. Forecasts? Neither. Only fashion notes in retrospective.

STYLE MAGAZINE JUNE 2020 – COVER

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IO UOMO – ICONA GAINSBOURG

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Gainsbourg Icon. Serge Gainsbourg, the bad boy of french pop, was said to be arrogant and violent and that his lifestyle dissolute; the label of “beautiful and damned” doesn’t fit him that much, because he was certainly not “beautiful”. But “damned”, probably, yes. Anyway the unkempt appearance it’s still somehow quite attractive related to the idea of a kind of devious and eccentric men, defined as artists and uncommon person, so that he’s become a real icon, and his style it’s being re-proposed to represent a certain nonchalant fashion. Tom Ford In 2002, during his time as creative director for Gucci, designed a collection feauturing extremely comfortable silhouettes made from soft and fluid fabrics like jersey and wool cloth. Although the reviews were enthusiastic, the collection didn’t have the expected results. The same thing happened, more recently, for Zegna collections by Stefano Pilati. I have already written about how oversize fashion still can’t find its way to the general public’s heart, for now. I personally like it, but I recognize its limits.

STYLE MAGAZINE APRIL 2020 – COVER

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IO UOMO – OLTRE IL NERO

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Beyond black. Mickey Rourke in a shot of 23 years ago by Stephanie Pfriender Stylander, published by Entertainment Weekly when the movie Fall Time was out in cinemas. Rourke, still handsome, sexy and transgressive, with nail enamel, cigarette and alluring gaze, was wearing a total black look by Giorgio Armani. Black: it is said that you never go wrong with black. It is almost true, but not completely: it’s just less easy to fail. Considering that the only possible alternative is not the bright, showy color, for rockstars, but even the most traditional brands suggest soft shades like dull green, light brown, burgundy, it’s possible (well, it’s a duty actually) to find the courage to abandon the guidelines compliant with rules of a way of dressing that’s obsolete by now.