ermenegildo zegna couture

IL PRINCIPE DI GALLES

INDOSSATO Scatto di Federico Miletto per The Men Issue, Styling di Giovanni de Ruvo.

Abito Ermenegildo Zegna Couture

 

cheshirecoppens

a sin., Oliver Cheshire in uno scatto di street style; a ds., Sfilata Tim Coppens f/w 2017

Grazie Duca!

Si può dire che Edoardo VII, per primo, ed Edoardo VIII, suo nipote dopo di lui, furono dei veri “Arbiter Elegantiae”, dal latino giudice di raffinatezza, del loro tempo.

Edoardo VIII, innovativo nel modo di vestire e nello sperimentare accostamenti, al tempo eccentrici, e comparati ad oggi di sicuro avanguardisti, fece del Principe di Galles (tessuto dal caratteristico pattern quadrettato inventato dal nonno) una vera scoperta, ed una pietra miliare per la moda maschile attuale.

Questo tessuto molto versatile, nella sua versione classica, può essere utilizzato per l’abito due pezzi, oppure in tre pezzi, con gilet; può essere indossato spezzato, con giacca su un pantalone cargo per un effetto casual, o ancora può avere vestibilità stretta o loose, con spalline o senza; può essere portato foderato su camicia sartoriale, o sfoderato, più fresco, su di una T-Shirt, e addirittura, come possiamo vedere in uno di questi tre scatti, con un look street, oggi super cool, abbinato ad una tuta in acetato, come da sfilata Tim Coppens fall/winter 17/18.

Nelle altre due situazioni, vediamo da una parte Oliver Cheshire, modello ed influencer inglese, immortalato per la strada in un completo monopetto fitted ma elegantissimo, dall’altra invece uno scatto realizzato appositamente per The Men Issue da Federico Miletto, con protagonista un abito doppiopetto in fresco di lana di Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, della collezione fall/winter 17/18: un Principe di Galles, in perfetto stile British, impeccabile, ma anche Metrosexual. Styling e testo di Giovanni de Ruvo

 

Thanks to the duke! We can say that Edward VII, and then … Continua a leggere →

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO IL PONTE INTITOLATO A PPP

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The bridge dedicated to PPP. Ariola is a district of Gerocarne, in the province of Vibo Valentia, in Calabria, with 500 inhabitants in 1960. That year, a certain writer and director that made history arrived thereabouts: Pier Paolo Pasolini. He started the research for the location of “The Gospel according to St. Matthew”, 4 years before the first action. At that time, Ariola could be reached only with a mule track: Pasolini promised to contribute to the building of a bridge, in order to make the life of the inhabitants easier (today they’re around two hundred). The bridge was built and the director kept in touch with a family living there through letters: that, unfortunately, were lost during the emigrations in the following years. In that small town there are four workshops of ceramists that, probably, wouldn’t have existed without that bridge. 57 years later- maybe a little too late- in march, the bridge was dedicated to Pier Paolo Pasolini.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO VI PIACE IL GENERE?

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Do you like this gender? Gender – No Gender. Nothing to do with transvestism, transsexuality nor homosexuality. Is good to distinguish the social-cultural and scientific side from the fashion one. In the second case, gender is a term (sometimes used improperly) that describes a kind of style that mixes harmoniously masculine elements with feminine ones. The line between the two sexes becomes finer. One of the main trends of contemporary apparel, maybe thanks also to the physical similarities of today’s teenagers (boys are thinner with long hair and girls have their hair cut short and wear gladly men’s blazers, T-shirts and jeans, like in the Seventies), accompanies and enhances a phenomenon attributable to males’ desire of showing their fragility and females’ desire of imposing their strenght. There’s nothing wrong like there’s nothing right, there’s not to be proud nor disgusted. As in all things, everybody has the right to choose.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO YACHT CLUB

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Yacht club. That kind of menswear inspired by the sea can be easily defined as timeless. Yes to jackets (for the yacht), windbreakers (for the sailing boat), pullover made of cotton (for both), accessories for watersports. And, for the most elegant, yes to the classic double-breasted blue navy blazer with contrasting buttons for the happy hour. Why are they timeless pieces? The striped sweater reminds us of the pictures of Dalì with Garcia Lorca in the 20s. The windbreaker reminds us of the legendary Jacques Cousteau in the documentaries of the 60s/70s. Actually, the steel cronograph can be also worn in the city, as the white trousers, that perfectly match red and blue (but never wear them all together, they immediately make think about the french flag). In terms of shoes, espadrilles are allowed only at the seaside. Jacques Cousteau on the Calypso, ex minesweeper of the Royal Navy, after a diving exploration.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO GRANDI UOMINI

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Great men. “In this job you need to know a little bit of everything: if I make a character be punctured by a needle in the wrong part of the arm, dozens of doctors will write to me to complain”. To sum up: to be a filmmaker you have to know even about – in this case – medicine, as this quote is by Alfred Hitchcock. And do fashion designers ever think about plus-sized men? In other words, if men wearing a 52/54 size would like to be in fashion, is there any designer that creates also for them? Surely Gucci and Saint Laurent don’t. Just to mention two very popular examples of brands that emphasize slim silhouettes, and other kings of fashion surely don’t create their collections drawing inspiration from Hitchock or, so to speak, Julian Schnabel. What shall you do if the scale marks overweight? It’s not only a women’s problem. The same old tailor? Ok, but the tailor is not “in fashion”. Take a look at the clothes I suggest: I think they fit everybody. A portrait and the popular profile of the director Alfred Hitchcock.