Dsquared2

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – LA MODA DELL’ARTE

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Fashion of Art. From 2010 the philosophy of “fashion of Art” started to spread. The most popular brands diversified their communication strategies incorporating other worlds, making them compatible with fashion. One of the first coexistences of art and design is the glass and steel  slide designed by Carsten Holler for Prada Milan headquarter. Among the most recent there are Dolce & Gabbana’s haute-couture (in Naples) and Alta Sartoria Uomo (in Palermo) fashion shows: they chose two art cities, not “fashion” cities, like Milan or Paris. But let’s consider the “tradition of fashion” and fashion in the strict sense and ask ourselves what will remain of this decade 2010/20.  The phenomenon of the millenials will go down in history; the innovation is not the proposal of a harmonious masculine/feminine and feminine/masculine ideal that has already existed from Jim Morrison on, and that was resumed by Hedi Slimane in 2000: the innovation is in the extraordinary ostentation that, translated in numbers, has taken Gucci back to the top of the most sold brands. Hats off to Alessandro Michele. In the end, in memories will remain the multitude of accessories that has supported and supports fashion’s budgets. Little-great pieces of contemporary art, from eyewear to shoes and bags.

COWBOY ESSENTIAL

DSQUARED

Borsa, DSquared2, f/w 2017.

Per il debutto della collezione uomo/donna dell’imminente autunno/inverno, Dean e Dan Caten hanno voluto inneggiare alla fluidità di genere, vestendo con pezzi simili e riccamente decorati degli ideali abitanti di un Canada cui rendono omaggio attraverso una serie di codici e suggestioni tipici. Glamour e grunge s’incontrano, insieme a elementi del vecchio west e a capi tecnici da montagna. “Abbiamo creato un look per lui e lei, e per lei e lui. Lei indossa bouquet di fiori stampati sugli abiti, lui li indossa stampati su giacche e camicie; il maglione over di lui indossato sulla camicia rispecchia il look di lei. Per la nostra prima collezione co-ed uomini e donne hanno lo stesso stile, di montanari glamour,” dicono i designer. Scelte che si riflettono anche nel design degli accessori, basti guardare la borsa in agnello e lana: forma e capienza che potrebbero piacere al pubblico femminile, dettagli strong in metallo che potrebbero piacere al pubblico maschile. E le frange in suede, elemento inscindibile dall’immaginario cowboyA cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl. 

For the debut f/w co-ed show,

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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO CIAO MASCHIO

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Hello, male. How changes the perception of “beauty” over time! And with many contraddictions. The fans of the last androgynous skinny trend are usually the same that regret the “real males”, all muscles, moustaches and suntan? The menswear samples are made only for very thin build by now. Size 46, at most 48. Obviously, those so lucky (but is it a real value?) to have this kind of build can consider a purchase in this direction, if they can afford it. The hunks are excluded. How much longer? Will the 80s’ sense of beauty come back? Many hope so. I don’t feel the difference: due to age matters I’ll be ridiculous dressed like David Bowie as well as Burt Reynolds.

STYLE MAGAZINE 2016

This picture by Giovanni Gastel refer to “Rebel without a cause” by Nicholas Ray; we’re in full 50s mood. Outfit DSquared2, Model Jarno Boom, Styling Angelica Pianarosa.

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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO DENIM ’70

40 MODA R schema libero70s’ Denim. It happens cyclically and punctually: 70s are back in fashion again. And I can tell you more: in summer 2016, flared trousers and flowery shirts will be in the top lists of all the fashion victims. In this season, on the other hand, the references of that anguished decade of the revolution against the hypocrisy of the middle class, that crumbling middle class well depicted by Luchino Visconti in Conversation Piece, are represented by the great offer of denim. But today it acquires a completely different meaning, far away from any revolutionary ideology. I like to think that in its own way denim would like to celebrate that social and cultural movement that some of us regret. Michael Douglas wearing jeans on the set of Napoleon and Samantha (1972)