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ALOHA SPRING

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Camicia, DSquared2, s/s 2018.

Uno dei trend ufficiali e più evidenti della s/s 2018 è il revival della camicia hawaiana. Divenuto un must dagli anni 50 in poi negli States, anche grazie a Elvis, questo capo di abbigliamento è un inno alla spensieratezza e alla comodità, di cui molti tra i più grandi brand di prêt-à-porter hanno dato la propria interpretazione per questa stagione. Così DSquared2 parte dalla classica Aloha Shirt, a manica corta, con colletto aperto e taschino sul petto, che viene abbinata però a capi in pelle nera, fibbie, dettagli western e tocchi goth. Un accostamento sorprendente che dona accenti grintosi e un po’ cupi a un mondo che sicuramente cupo non è.  A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl. 

One of the “official” and most evident trends of ss18 is the revival of the hawaiian shirt. Become a must from the 50s on in the States, thanks to Elvis also, this garment is a tribute to carefreeness and comfort, and many among the greatest brands of prêt-à-porter gave their interpretation of it for this season. So DSquared2 starts from the classic Aloha Shirt, short sleeved, with open collar and breast pocket, matching it with black leather garments, buckles, western details and goth touches. A surprising combination that gives bold and a little dark accents to a world that is not dark at all. Edited by Angelica Pianarosa, Ph. Michele Gastl.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – SKI STYLE

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Ski Style. Looking at Stenmark, Thoeni and Hinterseer in this picture, we immediately notice that twentyeth-century style that today seems to belong to a prehistoric era. This is not nostalgia, I don’t regret those trousers that when you fell got soaked, the snow in the boots, the wind jackets that didn’t repair from cold at all. Thumbs up for the union of fashion and technology. All the more so – fifty years later – we can find that kind of elegance in some sport collection very performing but at the same time very refined (well, it’s not easy to ennoble nylon and elastic fabrics). Z Zegna is an example of that: the sport line designed by Alessandro Sartori for Ermenegildo Zegna is a modern expression of elegance and good taste translated into comfort. After all the sport trend in fashion is very strong, and if on one side we have sophisticated clothes, on the other we can find stronger proposals for that fashion customers that loves ostentatiuons and extreme luxury. And that, in a skiing outfit, walks only on the city streets.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – LA MODA DELL’ARTE

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Fashion of Art. From 2010 the philosophy of “fashion of Art” started to spread. The most popular brands diversified their communication strategies incorporating other worlds, making them compatible with fashion. One of the first coexistences of art and design is the glass and steel  slide designed by Carsten Holler for Prada Milan headquarter. Among the most recent there are Dolce & Gabbana’s haute-couture (in Naples) and Alta Sartoria Uomo (in Palermo) fashion shows: they chose two art cities, not “fashion” cities, like Milan or Paris. But let’s consider the “tradition of fashion” and fashion in the strict sense and ask ourselves what will remain of this decade 2010/20.  The phenomenon of the millenials will go down in history; the innovation is not the proposal of a harmonious masculine/feminine and feminine/masculine ideal that has already existed from Jim Morrison on, and that was resumed by Hedi Slimane in 2000: the innovation is in the extraordinary ostentation that, translated in numbers, has taken Gucci back to the top of the most sold brands. Hats off to Alessandro Michele. In the end, in memories will remain the multitude of accessories that has supported and supports fashion’s budgets. Little-great pieces of contemporary art, from eyewear to shoes and bags.

COWBOY ESSENTIAL

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Borsa, DSquared2, f/w 2017.

Per il debutto della collezione uomo/donna dell’imminente autunno/inverno, Dean e Dan Caten hanno voluto inneggiare alla fluidità di genere, vestendo con pezzi simili e riccamente decorati degli ideali abitanti di un Canada cui rendono omaggio attraverso una serie di codici e suggestioni tipici. Glamour e grunge s’incontrano, insieme a elementi del vecchio west e a capi tecnici da montagna. “Abbiamo creato un look per lui e lei, e per lei e lui. Lei indossa bouquet di fiori stampati sugli abiti, lui li indossa stampati su giacche e camicie; il maglione over di lui indossato sulla camicia rispecchia il look di lei. Per la nostra prima collezione co-ed uomini e donne hanno lo stesso stile, di montanari glamour,” dicono i designer. Scelte che si riflettono anche nel design degli accessori, basti guardare la borsa in agnello e lana: forma e capienza che potrebbero piacere al pubblico femminile, dettagli strong in metallo che potrebbero piacere al pubblico maschile. E le frange in suede, elemento inscindibile dall’immaginario cowboyA cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl. 

For the debut f/w co-ed show,

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IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO CIAO MASCHIO

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Hello, male. How changes the perception of “beauty” over time! And with many contraddictions. The fans of the last androgynous skinny trend are usually the same that regret the “real males”, all muscles, moustaches and suntan? The menswear samples are made only for very thin build by now. Size 46, at most 48. Obviously, those so lucky (but is it a real value?) to have this kind of build can consider a purchase in this direction, if they can afford it. The hunks are excluded. How much longer? Will the 80s’ sense of beauty come back? Many hope so. I don’t feel the difference: due to age matters I’ll be ridiculous dressed like David Bowie as well as Burt Reynolds.