canali

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO YACHT CLUB

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Yacht club. That kind of menswear inspired by the sea can be easily defined as timeless. Yes to jackets (for the yacht), windbreakers (for the sailing boat), pullover made of cotton (for both), accessories for watersports. And, for the most elegant, yes to the classic double-breasted blue navy blazer with contrasting buttons for the happy hour. Why are they timeless pieces? The striped sweater reminds us of the pictures of Dalì with Garcia Lorca in the 20s. The windbreaker reminds us of the legendary Jacques Cousteau in the documentaries of the 60s/70s. Actually, the steel cronograph can be also worn in the city, as the white trousers, that perfectly match red and blue (but never wear them all together, they immediately make think about the french flag). In terms of shoes, espadrilles are allowed only at the seaside. Jacques Cousteau on the Calypso, ex minesweeper of the Royal Navy, after a diving exploration.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO THE MODEL GURU

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The model guru. Cameron Alborzian was born in 1967, from english mother and iranian father. Between the late eighties and the early nineties he was a top model, that many of you maybe remember for Madonna’s videoclip Express Yourself. Then Cameron took an interest in natural medicine and became yoga and reflexology instructor, graduating in New York. In 2003 he moved to India, in Coimbatore, where he increased and improved his knowledge. He contributes to Huffington Post and during the years he writes for several newspapers, from The New York Times to The Times of London. I think that if today he meets Ms. Ciccone, he wouldn’t be shaken. The greatness of Cameron is a mirage for the main part of us. Cameron Alborzian photographed by Mauro Balletti in 1994 for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO GRANDI UOMINI

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Great men. “In this job you need to know a little bit of everything: if I make a character be punctured by a needle in the wrong part of the arm, dozens of doctors will write to me to complain”. To sum up: to be a filmmaker you have to know even about – in this case – medicine, as this quote is by Alfred Hitchcock. And do fashion designers ever think about plus-sized men? In other words, if men wearing a 52/54 size would like to be in fashion, is there any designer that creates also for them? Surely Gucci and Saint Laurent don’t. Just to mention two very popular examples of brands that emphasize slim silhouettes, and other kings of fashion surely don’t create their collections drawing inspiration from Hitchock or, so to speak, Julian Schnabel. What shall you do if the scale marks overweight? It’s not only a women’s problem. The same old tailor? Ok, but the tailor is not “in fashion”. Take a look at the clothes I suggest: I think they fit everybody. A portrait and the popular profile of the director Alfred Hitchcock.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO CRAVATTA SI, CRAVATTA NO

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Tie, yes or no?. Blazer and shirt, without pullover. And without tie. Claudio Antonioli, owner of one of the most fashionable boutiques in Milan, has proclaimed the “farewell to the tie”. Some jobs need the tie and other don’t. Some men love it (the main part of them) and other hate it (“It’s too tight, it’s annoying, it makes me feel uncomfortable). So give voice to the trendsetters like Antonioli but, for equal conditions, listen to those who think different: me, for example. The jacket worn with the shirt, but without the tie, suits very few men. If you belong to the “no-ties” side, have at least the caution to wear the shirt completely buttoned. Or, absurdly: wear it unbuttoned to the breastbone, even if you take the risk to look like a naff, especially if you have a hairy chest. In doubt, cover the shirt with a beautiful sweater made of light wool or, indeed, wear the tie. The American rockstar Michael Stipe in a picture of Ron Galella.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO BIANCO D’INVERNO

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Winter in white. White and its shades: the non-colour par excellence and its variations, that from the total purity goes to sand and white coffee. The pure white, the more manifest icon of summer outfits, in several collections of this f/w is a starting point, that designers develop a different menswear that enlight the darkest days from. White, beige, sand reminds us fabrics like linen and cotton, the atmospheres of La Dolce Vita or the stories of La lunga strada di sabbia by Pier Paolo Pasolini. Until the Eighties, who wore white in winter was considered as an eccentric (or as a vulgar) person, in effect there were only jeans and a few sweaters. Maybe a scarf. Today there’s a huge fabric availability: wool, camelhair and cashmere. All you have to do is believe, and choose the right matches. The writer and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini in 1963 in his house in Rome.