Accessories against anonymity. … Continua a leggere →

Christopher Bailey è un “battitore libero”: onore al merito. Normalmente le sue collezioni ignorano le tendenze generali e lui gioca una partita tutta sua. I blouson, i soprabiti, gli abiti vengono messi in gran risalto grazie ad uno styling di tutto rispetto: ogni uscita con un cappello e con una borsa, ogni passo dei modelli reso prezioso da un bel lavoro sulle calzature. Colorata, fresca (anche se poco estiva). Intensa.

Christopher Bailey … Continua a leggere →

Purist, contemporary. Man about town is one of the few magazines that don’t make too much of styling, following instead the inputs of the designers. In the picture 8above), for example, we notice a sweater by Cerruti 1881 (f/w 2013) designed by Aldo Maria Camillo. Since the debut (in june 2012) Camillo has showed a particular taste for geometric shapes and fluid fabrics. The s/s 2014 collection reconfirms him as one of the most refined and interesting designers of the moment: the show presents extraordinary sleeveless coats, with big necks that can be transformed in hoods and a play of multitasking button-fastening; and it alternates with stylistic coherence light sweaters to be worn outside of the trousers and formal, simple and clean suits. Cerruti 1881’s menswear is purist, but embellished by innovative ideas that represent contemporary fashion. And doesn’t recall in any way other collections, past or present.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Una delle migliori collezioni di Bailey. La moda di questa sfilata si ammorbidisce rispetto al passato nelle forme attraverso una gamma di tessuti preziosi e l’accostamento di colori e stampe – giocate anche nelle fodere dei capi spalla – è davvero unico, anche per le borse. Il rimando stilistico/culturale a Paul Smith e a Etro è evidente. Sottolineando che “rimandare” nel senso di “ricordare”, non è sinonimo di “copiare”.

HACKETT LONDON

Bella, elegante, molto classica. I display che presentava a Pitti Uomo prima di decidere di sfilare, però, sembravano più “ricchi” e lo styling era più emozionale.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

One of the most beautiful collections designed by Bailey. The fashion is soften in shapes than in the past thanks to a range of fine fabrics and the match of colours and prints – even in the lining of the outerwear – is really unique. The cultural/stylistic reference to Paul Smith and Etro is clear. Notice that “to refer” in this case means “to recall”, not “to copy”.

HACKETT LONDON

Beautiful, elegant, very classic. But the displays presented at Pitti Uomo before the decision of modeling, seemed to be “richer” and styling was more emotional.

Photo grandeur. If we’d like to tell a story about fashion and people that represent it, choosing only one picture for every great photographer from the early years of ‘900 till today, probably the pages of this issue won’t be enough. The common denominator would be the simplicity; a white or grey background, clean or rarefied lights and shades, the absence of props: only gazes, faces, expressions, style, light, intensity, fashion, attitude. In location pictures, or in en plein air ones, was and still is the subject the element that “arises”: just look at portfolios of Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Norman Parkinson. In their shots, landscapes were often neutral, “nowhere”, as it’s used to say in fashion photography. The skill of the photographer, first of all, and then of styling and grooming, accents the most eccentric fashion up to the masterpiece. Among the photographers in which I believed first there’s Johan Sandberg: his obsession with the research of the “perfect” light make him a master of photography. Style 2007, the top model Patrick Petitjean in Gaultier, picture by Johan Sandberg.