brioni

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO PELLE DI SERPENTE

15-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia16-1

Snakeskin. Edoardo Purgatori is a roman actor. He was born in 1989, from german mother and italian father (Andrea Purgatori, screenwriter and journalist). He starts his career in theatres. His debut in a tv series is in 1997, but he doesn’t give up the stage, where he acts in italian, english (The Glass Menagerie and The Shape of Things) and german. He has already acted in a dozen of movies. We’ve worked with Edoardo for several fashion shootings. He’s a sensitive, polite, determined man. He owns such a natural elegance, that he can wear a snake jacket and a pair of jeans without looking like a naff (this was the risk). But follow my advice: wear leather with finer fabrics. Not with jeans, absolutely not total leather. Unless you have the appeal of Brando (do you remember The Fugitive Kind, 1959?) or Edoardo Purgatori, indeed. The actor Edoardo Purgatori in a picture of Luigi Miano for Max (2010). 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO GRANDI UOMINI

Schermata-2016-03-09-a-18.09

Great men. “In this job you need to know a little bit of everything: if I make a character be punctured by a needle in the wrong part of the arm, dozens of doctors will write to me to complain”. To sum up: to be a filmmaker you have to know even about – in this case – medicine, as this quote is by Alfred Hitchcock. And do fashion designers ever think about plus-sized men? In other words, if men wearing a 52/54 size would like to be in fashion, is there any designer that creates also for them? Surely Gucci and Saint Laurent don’t. Just to mention two very popular examples of brands that emphasize slim silhouettes, and other kings of fashion surely don’t create their collections drawing inspiration from Hitchock or, so to speak, Julian Schnabel. What shall you do if the scale marks overweight? It’s not only a women’s problem. The same old tailor? Ok, but the tailor is not “in fashion”. Take a look at the clothes I suggest: I think they fit everybody. A portrait and the popular profile of the director Alfred Hitchcock.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO BIANCO D’INVERNO

42-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia7-1

Winter in white. White and its shades: the non-colour par excellence and its variations, that from the total purity goes to sand and white coffee. The pure white, the more manifest icon of summer outfits, in several collections of this f/w is a starting point, that designers develop a different menswear that enlight the darkest days from. White, beige, sand reminds us fabrics like linen and cotton, the atmospheres of La Dolce Vita or the stories of La lunga strada di sabbia by Pier Paolo Pasolini. Until the Eighties, who wore white in winter was considered as an eccentric (or as a vulgar) person, in effect there were only jeans and a few sweaters. Maybe a scarf. Today there’s a huge fabric availability: wool, camelhair and cashmere. All you have to do is believe, and choose the right matches. The writer and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini in 1963 in his house in Rome.

SCHEMA LIBERO FATE LARGO

iodonna

Far and wide. Giorgio Armani, 1982. Ph. Aldo Fallai for L’uomo Vogue. Look at the baggy shapes you see today in the shops’ windows: lots of them show suits, raincoats, coats, shirts, sweaters and trousers that remind the lines of this Armani collection, that dates back to 33 years ago. No, I don’t want to write the nth tribute to Giorgio Armani, but it’s instinctive to say: “Everything started from there and there we come back!”. An ultimate back to the roots? No. In two seasons this trend will be replaced by others. But let’s stick to the present; today we’ve recovered the pleasure of wearing large clothes, that are more comfortable and elegant than the too fitted menswear that has been in fashion for years. But pay attention to baggy trousers; when you sit down your ankles show up looking like breadsticks, and give a disproportionate appearance: the risk is to give this impression also when we stand up; so avoid loafers and pointed shoes and prefer monkstraps or brogues with wide and round shape.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE LA SECONDA VOLTA DI BRENDAN AL CASTELLO

moda_Storia8_Page_2

Brendan’s second time at Castello. … Continua a leggere →