AESOP

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO NON SONO DETTAGLI

schema-libero12Not details. Eric Bergère, art director, journalist and stylist, born in 1960, in a portrait by Terence Donovan in 1988. Bergère styling is perfectly in line with those years: exaggerated and pompous. Obsessive about details: when he didn’t wear the tie, he wore the cache-col, inserted into the neck of the shirt buttoned up to the third button. With the tie he always wore the silky pocket-handkerchief, matched with the tie. The sideburns were still long, last traces of the 70s grooming; the hair instead were in very 80s style, smoothed back with hair gel. In almost 30 years shapes have changed, but in today’s collections we can see the checked moulinex on blazers and the houndstooth on trousers; rarely the paisley prints on ties. But the pocket hankie is still “missing”.

ABOUT MOROCCAN FRAGRANCES

Clicca sull’immagine per ingrandirla
A cura di Gioele Panedda
Styling di Gioele Panedda
Illustrazioni di Andrea Tarella

Il Marocco resta un’ispirazione primaria, per gli odori evocativi delle spezie, i colori intensi dei suoi suk e del deserto circostante, o per la calda ospitalità tipica delle tradizioni marocchine. Quattro essenze e un’anima, il Marocco.
 
BRIONI – EAU DE TOILETTE Sintetizza il savoir-faire e la tradizione sartoriale Brioni in una fragranza, composta da tre accordi, agrumato, boutonnière e legnoso.
La ricchezza della fragranza è attribuita alle note intense di legni affumicati combinati a zafferano, oud e liquirizia nera, ingredienti caratteristici del Marocco.

SOOUD – JADAB Jadab è l’ultimo frutto creativo di una riflessione sulla seduzione maschile in chiave medio-orientale moderna. Un savoire-faire che conquista e che si esprime in un percorso olfattivo segreto, quasi un alchemico potente trucco d’amore. Ingredienti ruvidi e avvolgenti, contrasti di bouquet floreali e materie prime orientali apparentemente inconciliabili, fanno di Jadab un effluvio potente.
 
ROBERT PIGUET – CASBAH Robert Piguet ci invita in un viaggio magico in Marocco, Casbah: un profumo evocativo e affascinante. Ispirato dalla città di Marrakech, il Kasbah unisce il calore delle spezie marocchine con l’eleganza austera di cedro dell’Atlante, mentre l’incenso, vetiver ammorbidito avvolgono il tocco finale.

AESOP –  MARRAKECH INTENSE Marrakech Intense è un profumo che bilancia fresche note floreali di testa e di cuore con sentori legnosi d’oriente, impreziositi da note di fondo animali. L’assoluta di gelsomino egiziano pervade la fragranza con sensualità, legando tra loro le note più speziate. La brillantezza del bergamotto si estende fino a mischiarsi perfettamente con le note di testa del neroli e dei petali di gelsomino, aggiungendo freschezza e vivacità.

Edited and styling by Gioele Panedda,  … Continua a leggere →

SCHEMA LIBERO GRANDI IMPRESE

 Great feats. In May 1932 the American aviator Amelia Mary Earhart (1897-1937) carried out a great feat: she flew solo from Terranova Island (Canada) to Londonderry (Northern Ireland) in fourteen hours and fiftysix minutes. The picture of her seems to be an adv campaign shot by Fallai for Armani in the late 80s – early 90s. And she is “very Armani” too: short hair, tie and trousers, “comme des garçons”. This is one of the most suitable looks for women who love wearing men’s clothes or for men with a lean build that prefer a classic but unusual elegance. Sure, the tie can be too wide and old-fashioned. But, considering the great return in menswear of fluid and wide volumes, I’m sure that the tie with a width of at least 8cm will be back soon on the catwalks. The pioneer of the solo non-stop flight across the ocean Amelia Mary Earhart in 1935.

MODEL’S BEAUTY CHOICE

 

Stirling (2Morrow) using AVEDA MEN

PURE FORMANCE EXFOLIATING SHAMPOO and PURE FORMANCE FIRM HOLD GEL

Simone Bredariol (D’ Management) using BIONIKE

DEFENCE MAN ENERGISING ANT-WRINKLE CREAM AND DEFENCE MAN EYE CONTOUR CREAM

Olivier Langhendries (No Logo) using AESOP distribuito da OLFATTORIO

BODY GERANIUM TREATMENT AND ROSE HAIR & SCALP MASQUE

 

Rafael Perez (Elite) using TRUSSARDI

“MY LAND” SHAMPOO & SHOWER GEL

Dino Sabanovic (Fashion) using CHANEL

“BLEU DE CHANEL” TWIST & SPRAY

 Text by Andrea Porro, grooming Astor (Close Up), Ph. Luigi Miano.

 

SCHEMA LIBERO ADVERTISING

Autumn/Winter 1994: the “second half” of the campaign, in the advertising language. The outerwear style was still very similar to the 80s one with its big volumes, so far from the tight-fitting one that came along with the new decade and changed completely the men wardarobe. Same goes for trousers, shirts and ties. And of course the waistcoat which used to dominate the fashion scene: knitted, deconstructed or made of fabric but always loose-fitting and never tight. Shooting locations were basically non existent, neutral backgrounds and quite natural lighting. The main peculiarity has been the models attitude: intimist, thoughtful, reflective. Sometimes photographed with the eyes closed, like the top model Werner, (on top) shot by Mario Sorrenti for Dolce&Gabbana. Photographer Max Vudukul, shooting for Romeo Gigli (another waistcoat fan), has been aiming for the melancholic feeling expressed by the model’s eyes, staring beyond the horizon…