The tuxedo as a way of life: according to Tom Ford, it’s the attire that suits every occasion, not only the official ones. But it has to be worn with naturalness and nonchalance, as you can see in the pictures by Letizia Ragno for Style Magazine. Styling Luca Roscini.
Signature Pinstripe. Alfred Hitchcok filmed Suspicion in 1941, almost half a century before the invention of the technologies that today allow to create the glorified special effects. There’s a very famous scene, full of suspense, with Cary Grant bringing a glass of milk up the stairs to his wife – interpreted by Joan Fontaine. I leave in doubt who hasn’t watched the movie: the milk could be poisoned. And that glass, declared the filmmaker to Francois Truffaut in a book-interview, had the role of “illuminating the scene”; to obtain the effect he wanted, he used a very simple but effective trick: the glass contained a light bulb. The other stage lighting and the setting create a very fascinating play of geometries and symmetries: the stairs, the paintings, the column, the stripes and the lapels of Grant’s suit, the skylight’s structure that projects a cage-shaped shadow on the wall. An unmissable classic of one of the most famous and less appreciated by americans (at that time) angloamerican directors.
Borsa, Thom Browne, f/w 2017
Thom Browne, honored with the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2016, 2013 and 2006, the GQ Designer of the Year in 2008 and the Cooper Hewitt National Design Award in 2012, can take the credit, in almost 15 years of career, for having subverted the codes of men tailoring and classic wear, combining rigor with irony. The same for his accessories collections: next to geometric tote bags, brightened up only by contrasting diagonal stripes, minimal backpacks and briefcases for old times’ businessmen, appear playful figures, made of pebble grain leather, that reflect an irreverent attitude and a predilection for surrealism that has always characterized the designer’s creations. Edited by Angelica Pianarosa, Ph. Michele Gastl.
Classic fabrics, baggy proportions, layers of creased garments. An apparently accidental style that draws inspiration from “The man with the scarf”, painting by Andrea Martinelli. A bit clochard, a bit gentleman. Ph. Toni Thorimbert, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta.
Felpa, Palm Angels, f/w 2017.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
