The dynamic and severe soul of Jil Sander. The sum of the features of the Jil Sander s/s 2016 collection, signed by Rodolfo Paglialunga, which is the third show from his debut, reveales a rich but severe, in shapes and details, identity; only a complex sequence of blazers and embroidered multi-pockets trousers, prints that create asymmetrical geometries, and the sporadic but effective coloured accessories, contrast the compactness of the silhouettes, without interrupting the stylistic coherence. Compared to the previous one, this collection is more essential but also younger and more dynamic. Less conventional. The keyword to describe it could be commonly “sporty”, but be careful not to be diverted by the yellow flashes, the use of fabrics like denim or the “parachute canvas” for parkas and trenches, like the one in the picture: these are bright flare-ups, skillfully conceived to navigate in a very rigorous, but not repetitive, method. And they also help to modulate an idea of menswear in line with Jil Sander’s background, reevaluating its essence with a touch of modernism. A Jil Sander trench. Ph. Marcello Arena for Sportweek
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.