The most refined designers speak italian. Americans think that italian men are the most elegant in the world. The USA press applauds at Milan fashion shows with much more enthusiasm than the italian one, that’s maybe more used to the appeal of “Made in Italy” and its magic renewal every six months. Americans are crazy for our designers, and recognize their importance, their competence, their excellence. Viceversa, recently, some italian brands have availed themselves of the collaboration of american trendsetters, like Nick Wooster and Scott Schuman. One starts, and all the others follow. An inexplicable contradiction. Even France aims at our fashion designers, and that’s really meaningful, considering the typical patriotism of the French. And indeed, they often call our designers to their maisons. Think about Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent. And Aldo Maria Camillo for Cerruti 1881, a famous french maison founded in the 60s by the italian Nino Cerruti. A few hours before his debut in Paris, a couple of years ago, Camillo showed me the research he made in the huge archive of “Signor Nino”, from the dawn till 2001, when Cerruti sold the brand. Then the fashion show: I saw the brand’s historicity, kept in a palpable way but with a surprising contemporary twist. I’m writing in the past tense because Aldo Maria quit a few seasons later. What a pity. Another inexplicable contradiction. Ph by  David Sims for the 2014 ADV of Cerruti 1881, designed by Aldo Maria Camillo.

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