Winter is practical but overluxurious. Casting and hairstyles remind us of London in the Sixties, as well as the shape of trousers – slim, with a narrow and short bottom (but with a high turn-up) – and jackets: single-breasted, three buttons, quite fitted. But Paul Surridge, creative director of ZZegna, pays more attention, than to the formal wear, to a kind of sportswear corrupted by fashion ideas and contents, foreseeing a trend that will be very strong, the “Luxury/Sport”: a new trend that contains a practical but very luxurious essence. As it turns out you’ve had a very successful idea, Paul. “Thank you! I wanted to express a young attitude; men choose the suit as the way they dress, just like it had been for the mods, the movement that inspired me. It hasn’t been a copy/paste exercise but a way to reinvent a past mood. This trend starts from here, where sporswear and luxury meet each other”. I think this was one of the best fashion shows in Milan of the f/w 2014 season. I appreciated the use of colours: especially saffron-yellow that – used for caban and coats made of heavy wool – becomes softer: but that’s the only “bright” part of the collection, which is mainly based on blue and shades of grey. The two-coloured overclothes create very strong contrasts and become immediately a must-have. It seems you embraced a very concrete idea of menswear, a mix of Fashion and simplicity… “My creative process starts from colour and goes on with a deep research of fabrics, that acquire a characterizing identity; this is a personal challenge to bring innovation decreasing the ingredients and rewarding simplicity. This has been my favourite collection!”.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.