Men’s lines restart from sky-blue. Menswear is living a moment of great splendour. In proportion, today companies invest in menswear as much as they do in womenswear. Gilmar group has reintroduced a menswear line designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the brand is called N.21. Why “reintroduced”? Because Dell’Acqua has always designed menswear but for a while dedicated to prèt-à-porter, concentrating only on womenswear. Men’s fashion by Dell’Acqua is back and it restarts from next f/w, which he debuted with at Pitti Uomo in january. One picture from the past and one from today: the picture “in blue” is from 2003; I’ve choosen this one because it has a certain affinity with the new collection: some shades, for example sky-blue, according to Dell’Acqua, are still up-to-date. And his taste for knitting, and fabrics, treatments and details inspired by sportswear, is back too; but the evolution is clear, the designer hasn’t kept still since then. “Men’s fashion has gone through a metamorphosis, today style must consider the culture acquired by people during last years. Now the men’s collection is more mature. There’s my passion for knitting, but there’s also the desire to use new materials, such as neoprene. The cuts – actually – are less sporty and the silhouettes are more linear. The result is clothes with details that make them special, but without prevailing”. Above, a shot by Uli Weber for Uomo 2003, sweater by Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Below, two N.21 total looks for f/w 2014.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Sportweek, Io Donna and Sette.