When the coat becomes an accessory. There are very strict rules about clothing: for example, the last button of the jacket must be kept unfastened and the single-breasted suit must be buttoned only if we wear a coat or a trench on it. But the dress etiquette is more open-minded than yesterday, easing a wider freedom of choice and manners, because fashion, also male fashion, is for its definition renewal and change. Some time ago I read an article written by a colleague, that deprecated some details, two of which particularly stroke me: absolute no to polo shirt’s lifted collar and to the coat (or jacket) leant on the shoulders. I completely agree with the first one: the lifted collar is a sign of ostentation and arrogance, moreover of little refinement. The outerwear leant and not worn, that is usually a result of a temporary situation of comfort, can reveal a certain kind of nonchalance that disgress in dandysm. A self-conscious posture can afford to wear a piece of cloth as an accessory: it could be a very chic attitude, especially if the subject is chic. Aaron Olzer, photographer and movie-maker, in a picture by Luigi Miano for max.gazzetta.it
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Sportweek, Io Donna and Sette.