Black leather has been relegated for many years in “gone by” trends’ oblivion. In Minimalist period – from ’90 to ’00- there was a great success of those long dark coats that, incidentally, I’ve never liked. It was also the era of DSquared’s total black leather, while Paul Smith used it just for the five-pocket pants but combined them cleverly with fabric clothes, celebrating a not-fetish-related street style. To date, Chiuri and Piccioli (Maison Valentino), created a collection for next fall/winter season based on fusion of (black) leather and wool: leather inserts stiffen both wearability and silhouette but express a new concept of male fashion, that places their show between those forward-looking. Soon on Style magazine will be published a shooting I realized with Giovanni Gastel, in which I remarked the trend and the return of black leather, with a styling that mixes it with clothes made with very classic fabric and revisited traditional patterns. If wearing the polished napa leather waistcoat under a glencheck blazer seems too daring, simply try to wear the perfecto with a pair of pinstriped wool trousers. In this picture a detail of Valentino’s leather and wool coat with – under- a leather jacket by Costume National Homme.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.