The military inspired fashion trend keeps coming and going. It’s persistent more than any other cyclical trend and an evergreen since the 80s. At the time designers used to “steal” details and ideas for reinterpretation, as the military badges Ferre’ has been sewing on the shoulders of his paletots. Became very popular to look around for unique vintage pieces at flea markets and snap up military coats, shirts and bermudas with name, surname and rank of the soldier they once belonged to. In the 90s brands like Prada, Costume National Homme Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana, have been creating entire collections based on the sensuality and pragmatism of military clothing. The fabrics at first were hard and harsh but with the help of finishing treatments later on they became softer, blue and camouflage printed, just like combat uniforms. Personally I think it’s a style that suits everyone, when worn with confidence and without overdoing it (no to a total look uniform and combat boots). Generally I prefer to see it on young people. In any case the key word (sticking to the point) is “lightness”: of shapes, volumes and most importantly of approach. Picture by Massimo Pamparana for Max. Jacket by Burberry Prorsum.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.